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illzoni’s Body Lift – 2013 CC Pro-4X

12K views 53 replies 10 participants last post by  illzoni 
#1 · (Edited)
I’m going to body lift (BL) my 2013 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab Pro-4X. What I don’t know yet is how much. I’ve already leveled the suspension (2-1/2” front; 1-1/2” rear) and would actually like to create a bit of gap above the White Knuckle Offroad rock sliders so they’ll function as a bit of a step.

In the interest of determining what length bolts I need to buy, I removed most of the body mount bolts from the driver’s side (all but the one in front of the wheel—didn’t feel like pulling the fender liner out). I was able to remove each without too much effort using a standard ½” drive ratchet. One took nearly full effort all the way out, and the blue threadlock I found entirely covering the threads explained why.

Each of the cab mount bolts is the same:


And each of the bed mount bolts is the same:


Can anyone confirm if the body mount bolts forward of the wheels are the same as the other cab mount bolts?
Oh, and is it safe to assume the passenger side bolts match the driver’s side?


Thx,
Jon

PS – I’ll share my bolt calculations spreadsheet later. ;-)
 
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#5 · (Edited)
Here's my truck as it sits now, but with the rock sliders clamped on (awaiting repaint):


In this pic, I've lifted the truck 2" with jack stands and clamped the sliders back on with 2" spacers under the frame to simulate the effects of a 2" body lift:


In the second, the rear of the slider may be sagging a bit. I intend to take another shot a clear coating the sliders rather than painting them black, but think I'll paint the frame plates and short arms attached to those plates black to help them fade in with the frame and have the sliders separate a bit.

Oh, and in the last pic, I used cargo straps to further secure the sliders so we could test getting in/out of the truck using the sliders as steps. I think I'll like it. :)

 
#7 ·
Here's my truck as it sits now, but with the rock sliders clamped on (awaiting repaint):


In this pic, I've lifted the truck 2" with jack stands and clamped the sliders back on with 2" spacers under the frame to simulate the effects of a 2" body lift:


In the second, the rear of the slider may be sagging a bit. I intend to take another shot a clear coating the sliders rather than painting them black, but think I'll paint the frame plates and short arms attached to those plates black to help them fade in with the frame and have the sliders separate a bit.

Oh, and in the last pic, I used cargo straps to further secure the sliders so we could test getting in/out of the truck using the sliders as steps. I think I'll like it. :)

Here you go. You'll be hard pressed to find a mod that someone else hasn't already done.

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/diy-2-body-lift-19685/
 
#6 ·
There's an awesome thread with everything that you need for a body lift. I know because I used it. I wouldn't spend any effort figuring out the bolts because it's all on here already. Let me see if I can find it again. I had locktite problems with the 2 bed bolts closest to the cab. They both broke because I tried to zip them off with an impact. My advice, go very slow with a breaker bar.
 
#8 ·
#10 ·
I went through much of the stuff you see above (and more) thinking I might do something other than 2". But upon simulating 2" BL I decided no need to do anything less. ;-)

Oh, and you've inspired me to devise my own hi-lift jack mount. I'll share when I get it done.
 
#12 ·
Well, I've been stalled a bit as I don't want to execute the BL until I have my rock sliders ready for re-installation. My first paint job failed and I'm repainting them:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/painting-bare-metal-202473/

Once the BL is complete, I'll install the sliders. Here's something I put together that I find useful when installing them:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/...te-white-knuckle-offroad-rock-sliders-210609/

I'll post more when I progress on the BL.

Thx,
Jon
 
#13 · (Edited)
I left a metal-cutting blade in my chop saw for cutting the UHMW:



Once I attached my shop vacuum to the saw, the mess was minimal. It wasn't quite like a hot knife through butter, but it sure didn't strain anything, either. ;-)


Here are the cut pucks and the leftover rod (I started with 4'):




I made up a jig from scraps to hold the puck in place on the drill press:


Once I located center on one, there was no need to refigure unless I moved the jig. I did save the puck with tape on it for last.

The photo also shows me using the forstner bit needed to counterbore the bolt heads for the bed spacers (not mounts).


There's no vacuum attachment on my drill press:




Complete 2" BL kit:



Sixteen 2" UHMW pucks.

Eight Class 10.9, 160mm long 12mm (M12-1.25) bolts (cab mounts).

Four Class 10.9, 90mm long 10mm (M10-1.25) bolts (bed mounts).

Four 55mm bolts (two get nuts & washers; two will act as pins)(bed spacers).
 
#15 · (Edited)
First step was to lift the front of the truck and remove the front tires, giving me access to remove the fender liners and address other needed items.

I believe this wire is part of the ABS system (from others' posts):


I've seen at least one other poster extended the bracket. I'll just release the zip tie:


Plenty of slack in the line at full droop after the lift:

 
#16 · (Edited)
After loosening the ABS wires, I loosened all eight cab body mount bolts, removed the left (drivers' side) bolts, then lifted the cab with a block of wood on the floor jack. Lift point seemed best about even with the back edge of the side mirror, or just aft of the second body mount.

Left (driver's side) front (#1) body mount with bolt removed and cab lifted:


UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:


Left (driver's side) #2 body mount with bolt removed and cab lifted. You can see the jack and block of wood just aft of the mount:


UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:


Left (driver's side) #3 body mount with bolt removed and cab lifted:


UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:


Left (driver's side) #4 body mount with bolt removed and cab lifted:


UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:
 
#17 · (Edited)
Back to the right, passenger side I noticed this wire loom was stretched pretty snug once I lift the cab:


Fortunately, there's a little slack near the bottom after lowering the cab onto the blocks:


Right (passenger's side) front (#1) body mount with bolt removed and cab lifted:


Right (passenger's side) front (#1) body mount with UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:


Right (passenger's side) #2 body mount with UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:


Right (passenger's side) #3 body mount with UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:


Right (passenger's side) #4 body mount with UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:
 
#18 · (Edited)
After getting the cab lifted, I noticed this problem:

I suggest anyone doing this body lift completely remove the lower air dam (the black stuff) and make sure all lower (under the inner tube bumper) attachment points for the front end (body-color plastic) are detached before lifting. I didn't do this until after lifting and am afraid I may have bent some body panel attachment points. It mostly recovered after I loosened it and pushed on it a bit. We'll see..... If it doesn't stay away, I may have to remove the front end and bend those attachment points back, then re-install.

I hadn't read about it, but these wires popped out of their clips when I lifted the cab:

 
#19 · (Edited)
On to the bed!

The license plate light wire needs to be released before lifting the bed. Squeezing the shaft (red arrow) allows the clip to be pulled out from the other side. (Disregard the wire loom retained with the green zip tie--it's part of my custom backup lights.):


I lifted the bed with straps attached to the ceiling of the garage rather than using the jack and/or stilts as others have documented. I did it that way so I could lift the entire bed at once so I could work the 'bed spacers'. I strongly suggest using cam lock cargo straps rather than ratchet straps if anyone uses this method. They're much easier to make small adjustments.


The front left (driver's side) bed mount has a 'collar' protruding down that must be accounted for:


I used a 5/8" forstner bit to drill a counterbore about 3/8" deep:
 
#20 · (Edited)
As I'd learned from much reading of previous posts on this topic, the bed is secured with four body mounts, one at each corner. It also has four points at which the bed rests on the frame. I failed to snap a pic of that before installing the lift, so I'll use a finished photo to illustrate:

At the far left is the front left (driver's side) bed mount. Above each "X" on the frame is a 'bed spacer'. In stock condition, the bed rests on thin rubber pads at each point (two per side; four in total). Some have lifted their beds without addressing this. Not me.

The forward spacer goes right above the rear axle (center of the photo above). For this one, there's an open-ended channel with a hole already in it for mounting (I really don't believe that's why it's there.):


Here it is installed:

The underside of that puck is counterbored with a forstner bit to accommodate the bolt head and washer and allow the puck to sit flat on the frame.
 
#21 · (Edited)
The aft spacer doesn't have an open channel in which you can attach a nut to the bolt:





As with the forward spacer, that puck is counterbored with a forstner bit to accommodate the bolt head and washer and allow the puck to sit flat on the frame:





The bolt will serve as a locating pin, and once the bed is lowered onto the spacers and the mounts tightened, the spacer will not be able to shift and will support the load in the bed.

 
#23 · (Edited)
Here's what the complete left side looks like (what you can see; the back mount is up inside the fender):


Notes:

1) The black UHMW looks better than the others (IMNSHO) and is affordable from Amazon.

2) I used 2-1/2" for the cab and bed. Glad I did, as the forward bed spacers' holes don't align well with the frame and that extra width provides a bit more overlap than 2" UHMW would.

3) After actually doing it, I do think lifting the bed with straps makes it easier to install, particularly the spacers.

4) MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE LOWER FAN SHROUD.

Thanks to all who did this before and shared their wisdom. I poured over those threads countless times, copy/pasted into a Word document to organize useful tips, and downloaded many photos to use as reference.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Good job and great pictures/write-up. I used a car hoist to lift the bed and body - much, much easier. ::grin:: As for the one-piece bumper - if you just undo the screw mounts on the bottom of the bumper, you are all good.

Did you make the hi-lift mount?
 
#26 · (Edited)
When I lifted the right, passenger side of the cab, I did so with a scrap of 2x4 on top of my floor jack with the lifting point just aft of the pictured body mount. Unfortunately, I noticed too late that a large wiring loom runs around/under the frame bracket of that body mount. I damaged the loom by pinching it between the 2x4 and frame bracket:

As you can see, the loom is secured with a zip tie clipped into the frame bracket, but below the bracket and thus vulnerable to damage from below:

There is a large connector just forward of the body mount. That connector is mostly obscured by plastic cover in the lower right of the photo above. I usually struggle with vehicle connectors, but was able to figure this one out and get it disconnected. That made making the repair much easier, granting me better access to the damaged area.

My mistake significantly damaged two of the 30+ wires in the loom (solid yellow and coral/black stripe):

I believe both the ABS and traction control lights were on in the dash before I repaired the loom.

I did what I could to support the loom at a level comfortable to work on it (it's draped over a ratchet clamp attached to my floor jack handle), then separated the damaged wires for repair:


When I have the time and access, I prefer to solder my wires. An aircraft electrician taught me to wrap the meeting bare wires around each other, then twist them back on themselves before soldering:


Heat shrink tubing sure makes for a neater end product:

I strongly suggest a heat gun for shrinking it. An affordable one from HF beats a hair dryer or lighter hands down.

I did my best to re-wrap the loom as it had before I damaged it, but chose to re-install it above the frame bracket:


Once I closed the protective plastic housing over the connector, the repair was complete:


Hopefully, others can learn from my mistake.

And it might not be a bad idea to relocate the loom above the frame bracket to make it less vulnerable to damage from below (like rocks, logs, etc).
 
#27 ·
I've just edited my notes at the end to include "DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE LOWER FAN SHROUD."

I'm glad I remembered reading that tip in the other threads. It was clearly binding up with the fan and would've been a problem had I started the engine. It was easy to remove...just pulled each side loose and pulled it out through the left, driver's side wheel well.
 
#28 ·
I intend to lift the rear bumper, largely using the info gathered from this thread:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/diy-2-body-lift-19685/index3.html#post589441

And I'd like to lift the receiver hitch as well. Can anyone offer valuable info on either task?

Two other requests:

1) I'd like to get some of the 'push buttons' used to secure the fender liners. Where can I get them or a reasonable substitute (preferable black)?

2) I've done the loosen and steer stop-to-stop and the steering still binds a bit. Where can I get the extension?

TIA,
Jon
 
#31 ·
#32 ·
Zebra,

I'm not sure I'm following regarding the push buttons. I didn't reveal my purpose...I'm thinking of attaching rubber sheeting to the lower edges of the inner fender to close the gap created by the body lift. And might do similar for the rear bumper gap. I could get by with zip ties, but the buttons would be neater and reusable.

I'll have to search some more about the steering extension.

Shizzy,
That looks like a good tool to have.

Thx,
Jon
 
#33 ·
Zebra,

I'm not sure I'm following regarding the push buttons. I didn't reveal my purpose...I'm thinking of attaching rubber sheeting to the lower edges of the inner fender to close the gap created by the body lift. And might do similar for the rear bumper gap. I could get by with zip ties, but the buttons would be neater and reusable.

I'll have to search some more about the steering extension.
Yeah, I knew where you were going with the push buttons, I was suggesting that you consider just buying some quality gap guards or lift liners - they are pre-cut and come with the push buttons already. I bought the ones from 4x4parts.com and they have held up great over the years. 4x4 Parts - Frontier Body Lift Liners BLPA6423 - Your #1 Source for Nissan Aftermarket Parts!
 
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