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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2008, 05:36 PM
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Weehooker, as CCT will probably tell you also, the key to using a buffer is to keep it moving and keep really light pressure on it. Usually just let it glide over the paint WHILE holding on to it so it doesn't get away. As long as you keep it moving you will have a good result, just don't let it sit in one spot while it is running, keep it moving. Otherwise you will burn the paint.
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Old 05-14-2008, 07:23 PM
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Is Liquid Glass a silicone based product? I know it's not Carnuba. I personally only use Carnuba based products. They stay on the paint surface and don't "bond" with your clearcoat/paint. Learned that after my wife's Z24 needed paint work from an accident. Paint shop guys had a hell of a time matching the factory color and claimed it was because of the silicone based "wax" I used. They claimed it's bonding process changed the properties of the paint and altered the color. Any truth to that? What's your opinion? (to ctmobiledetail)

Yea, Weehooker I have used clay bars in the past but never on paint as new as mine. They do a hell of a good job if you've never used one the first time will amaze you.
All the body shop would have had to do is to use Ppg DX 330 acriliclean and it would have stripped the Liquid Glass back off. Sounds like they don't know paint prepping techniques, likewise, most body shops prep areas to be painted by sanding the clear and base off down to bare metal, so the LG certainly doesn't affect that. If they were doing paint touch up, you'd still want to at least run acetone or laquer thinner before painting, so they were either dumb or ignorant to paint prep. their claim was incorrect !

The only "wax" that body shops hate are teflon based products, of which nothing sticks very well to, but again , thats in regard to applying teflon based "wax" to their freshly painted , cured paints...they don't want the teflon to be airborne around their paint booths, etc.
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Old 05-14-2008, 07:35 PM
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Ive used the claybar on most of my truck, usually the sun kinda goes down before I get the chance to finish a claybar and have time to wax...

and since im leaving in 5 days for nearly an entire month, i was thinking of getting a cover but using that Turtle Wax Ice liquid clay bar cause its a lot faster and all. i dunno, im definitely going to wax after a very thorough washing. if these clouds ever clear up that is...
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Old 05-15-2008, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cctmobiledetail View Post
All the body shop would have had to do is to use Ppg DX 330 acriliclean and it would have stripped the Liquid Glass back off. Sounds like they don't know paint prepping techniques, likewise, most body shops prep areas to be painted by sanding the clear and base off down to bare metal, so the LG certainly doesn't affect that. If they were doing paint touch up, you'd still want to at least run acetone or laquer thinner before painting, so they were either dumb or ignorant to paint prep. their claim was incorrect !

The only "wax" that body shops hate are teflon based products, of which nothing sticks very well to, but again , thats in regard to applying teflon based "wax" to their freshly painted , cured paints...they don't want the teflon to be airborne around their paint booths, etc.
Well, this was late 80's when this happened and I think the crap I was using was in a bright green bottle "formula" something comes to mind.
Anyway, just found this tidbit on the interweb:
"There are some sources that even go so far to say that silicones are harmful to paint. This is not only dishonest; it calls into question the credibility of that resource and any and all claims they make. Silicone is inert. It cannot harm paint, let alone anything else it is formulated into, or sitting on top of, especially in the form of a coating of wax."
Guess I just learned something today, thanks for the input.

And Weehooker, I apologize for the threadjack.
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Old 05-15-2008, 09:11 AM
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Like I said before they were incorrect
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Old 07-12-2008, 05:32 PM
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OK, I didn't want to start up a whole new clay thread, so I just searched out this one....

What an amazing thing that little clay bar is....it really works well. And boy did my truck ever need it. Unfortunately for me I was about 20% done when I foolishly dropped the bar in the dirt
Luckily the wife is downtown and she is bringing me another one as we speak

Maybe I will post up some pictures when Im done waxing, but I just wanted to bring up some detailing discussion because it's the weekend.
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Old 07-12-2008, 07:46 PM
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Unfortunately for me I was about 20% done when I foolishly dropped the bar in the dirt
Yea, I got about 90% done before I launched mine from my slippery hands onto the driveway. Fortunately, some of the (better) advice I got said to rip the bar in 1/2 and then use only one piece. That spare piece came in handy!
Suggest you do the same with your next bar.

hth
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Old 07-13-2008, 12:47 AM
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Yea, I got about 90% done before I launched mine from my slippery hands onto the driveway. Fortunately, some of the (better) advice I got said to rip the bar in 1/2 and then use only one piece. That spare piece came in handy!
Suggest you do the same with your next bar.

hth
Gee, thanks for telling me now...lol

I will definitely do that next time.
By the way, I did finish up with the second bar. Then applied the cleaner wax, then it started raining.
I guess now I will search around for info on a good wax to use that is long lasting....
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:30 PM
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Everybody has a favorite wax (and some get downright defensive of them!).
I'm using the Klasse system with a Carnuba overcoat on my (white) truck and like it allot. When I had a dark (black) truck, I used and was very happy with Meguires Gold Class Paste. Really brought out the depth of the paint and held up well.
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