Need advice on polishing

[808Chaney]

CCMobiledetail brings up many good points. Buffers are great if you know what you are doing. If you're inexperienced, a new paint job can be destroyed or you may end up making it look worse than before you started. I have a Hitachi rotary buffer (would prefer a Dewalt) and a Porter Cable Orbital buffer. I am still learning how to use the rotary buffer and have only used on 2 of my vehicles for small areas only. I practice on our older white fleet vans that if I screw up nobody will be heart broken. However, I use my Porter Cable Orbital every time I detail my truck (or somebody elses). Orbitals are pretty close to being idiot proof however you cannot achieve the same results with an orbital as you can with a rotary. For example, when I bought the buffers, I got a black trunklid from a junk car to practice with. The trunk was faded, spotted, filled with swirl marks and all kinds of contaminants. I buffed half the hood with my Orbital and the other half with my rotary using Menzerna Intensive Polish and finished with Menzerna FMJ. The rotary side looked like a brand new paint job. The orbital side was no longer faded but some spotting was still there and the swirls and other blemishes. I have since started using 3m products after the guy who repaired my truck (after it was assaulted by a forklift) showed me how well they work. You may want to check out properautocare.com . They too have a wide variety of detail products and tools available at fairly decent prices. Sorry for the long drawn out rambling.

[NISM0]

Originally Posted by cctmobiledetail

Scratch X is inferior and improper to use on your paint. there has been alot of research and development done of automotive paints over the years by such companies as 3M. Using their products and techniques with a buffer is the only tried and true method to restore any automotive paint finish. Whether it be a late model Nissan or a new Ferrari, etc. 3M is the way to detail it correctly. satisfiying with store bought $5.00 a bottle scratch x and a buffer is not what your 2007 Nissan deserves. Think about it , what makes more sense : to listen to someone who uses cheap imitation products of their new paint thinking it's best or listen to a Detailing Professional about correct procedures to restore your finnish. You be the judge.

I hang out with two differant autobody and detailing professionals. I spend a lot of time around the autobody shop. They both think your crazy for even considering running a buffer over your 2007 Frontier. The paint and clear coat are too thin and won't stand up to that type of abuse.

Meguiar's have created some of the best product on the market today. You should check out there web page sometime. Meguiars.com..

If you are such an expert on detailing, why did you ask the question?

[cctmobiledetail]

Originally Posted by NISM0

I hang out with two differant autobody and detailing professionals. I spend a lot of time around the autobody shop. They both think your crazy for even considering running a buffer over your 2007 Frontier. The paint and clear coat are too thin and won't stand up to that type of abuse.

Meguiar's have created some of the best product on the market today. You should check out there web page sometime. Meguiars.com..

If you are such an expert on detailing, why did you ask the question?

I didn't ask the question, try reading the posts a little clearer before you speak incorrectly ...

the paint and clearcoat on a 2007 Nissan are no thinner than anything else out there. Your body shop guys are too afraid they'll burn the new paint as I suspect thats why they said they wouldn't do it

youand they are wrong to think that cheap $5.00 scratchx from walmart is superior to $ 40 quart 3M profesional compound. Just wait until you get a real scratch and see what you body shop buddies will do then ... SFB !

[NISM0]

Originally Posted by cctmobiledetail

I didn't ask the question, try reading the posts a little clearer before you speak incorrectly ...

the paint and clearcoat on a 2007 Nissan are no thinner than anything else out there. Your body shop guys are too afraid they'll burn the new paint as I suspect thats why they said they wouldn't do it

youand they are wrong to think that cheap $5.00 scratchx from walmart is superior to $ 40 quart 3M profesional compound. Just wait until you get a real scratch and see what you body shop buddies will do then ... SFB !

ScratchX is a 7oz tube, and it cost $8.46 at Walmart. It does a vantastic job. I offer do it your self low cost real world information based on experience and professional advice.

Instead of busting my balls, answer the posters question, and tell him the order of pads to use and the polishes and compounds to use.

My professional autobody friends don't want my money just my woman.

[cctmobiledetail]

Originally Posted by NISM0

ScratchX is a 7oz tube, and it cost $8.46 at Walmart. It does a vantastic job. I offer do it your self low cost real world information based on experience and professional advice.

Instead of busting my balls, answer the posters question, and tell him the order of pads to use and the polishes and compounds to use.

My professional autobody friends don't want my money just my woman.

My 4400 + cars and 15 Yrs Experience speaks volumes. I detail many high end cars all the time. Ferrari's, Lamborghini's, Vectors, Nobles, Rolls Royce, Bentley, other exotics, classics, hot rods. I've had many clients cars in many shows ; Concours dElegance in Pebble Beach, the Concorso in Carmel ( all italian car event ) I have this weekend a polished aluminum AC Cobra at the NADA Show at the Moscone center in San Francisco, where I used jewlers rouge polished this all aluminum body over a 3 day job. Here it is after I finished it. So before you speak out of turn, realize whom your dealing with.



Some of my other Clients Cars Detailed :

[Grand]

thats some nice work there and a nice setup there. I went to a few detail shops today and having some pro. do the detail for me. thanks for the advice. I just want an nice shiny truck. Some guy with 15 years experience is doing it himself. What you guys do is a art and amazing what you can do.

[jimmycrackcorn]

I'm gonna add a couple cents in here.

First, you gotta be a total monkey to burn paint with a UDM or a PC 7424. Random orbit buffers/polishers just don't create enough heat to burn through. About the only way I can think of burning through with a DA is to put the most aggressive pad you can find on it, set it to the highest speed, put no polish on the pad, and let it sit in the same spot for an hour. So don't be afraid of a UDM or a Porter Cable random orbit, they're basically idiot proof.

Second: "all professional detailers use 3M products". Gotta beg to differ there. While 3m does make some outstanding products, they are not the end-all be-all of automotive detailing. Especially when you have companies such as Optimum, Menzerna, and, dare I say it, Zaino (though I don't really care for their stuff).

So, to the OP..since your truck is already in good shape, with no major swirls or scratches, I would go ahead and get the UDM. Get a set of Lake Country CCS pads. By a set I mean, one cutting, one light cutting, two polishing, one finishing, and one final finishing pad. Get a bottle of polish, I recommend Optimum Polish. Get a good sealant, again, I'll throw out a recommendation here, get Jeffs Werkstatt Prime and Acrylic Jett Trigger. Then wash your truck, clay your truck, wash it again. Polish it with a polishing pad on your UDM with the Optimum Polish. When you're done with that, put on a finishing pad and apply the Prime, and then seal it up with two coats of Acrylic Jett Trigger. That combination will absolutely make your truck look amazing. Metal flake will just pop out at you in the light. Trust me on this one, you will not be disappointed!

[cctmobiledetail]

Originally Posted by jimmycrackcorn

I'm gonna add a couple cents in here.

First, you gotta be a total monkey to burn paint with a UDM or a PC 7424. Random orbit buffers/polishers just don't create enough heat to burn through. About the only way I can think of burning through with a DA is to put the most aggressive pad you can find on it, set it to the highest speed, put no polish on the pad, and let it sit in the same spot for an hour. So don't be afraid of a UDM or a Porter Cable random orbit, they're basically idiot proof.

Second: "all professional detailers use 3M products". Gotta beg to differ there. While 3m does make some outstanding products, they are not the end-all be-all of automotive detailing. Especially when you have companies such as Optimum, Menzerna, and, dare I say it, Zaino (though I don't really care for their stuff).
So, to the OP..since your truck is already in good shape, with no major swirls or scratches, I would go ahead and get the UDM. Get a set of Lake Country CCS pads. By a set I mean, one cutting, one light cutting, two polishing, one finishing, and one final finishing pad. Get a bottle of polish, I recommend Optimum Polish. Get a good sealant, again, I'll throw out a recommendation here, get Jeffs Werkstatt Prime and Acrylic Jett Trigger. Then wash your truck, clay your truck, wash it again. Polish it with a polishing pad on your UDM with the Optimum Polish. When you're done with that, put on a finishing pad and apply the Prime, and then seal it up with two coats of Acrylic Jett Trigger. That combination will absolutely make your truck look amazing. Metal flake will just pop out at you in the light. Trust me on this one, you will not be disappointed!

And your clients pics are where ? ......yeah well I know there are alot of wannabe's out there, who preach whats what. I also know they think that Zaino, menzerna, optimum and the like are great ......I even know about polish thats $1800 for a 8 oz jar.......but ( I guess I should say MOST Quality ) Professionals utilize 3M, for professional results ! See above pictures ! Also using all that BS amount of products Jimmyoncrackcorn says to use on new paint is ridiculous. Don't use a cutting anything on a brand new paint job ( cutting is for cutting into orange peel , oxidation, etc. ) his way is too many steps. If you want the easy way......do it by hand, and Wash with any kind of car soap, in warm water, using a microfiber sponge, only claybar if the hood feels rough, if it doesn't don't do it. Dry with a water blade, Go buy some Liquid Glass and apply with straight back and forth motions ( read the directions on the liquid glass can ) for the first coat and the day you "Wax" your trucks' only coat. apply with a clean applicator, let dry to a haze, then wipe off with two clean microfiber cloths, then finish with another set of clean microfiber cloths; two dry and one damp. wipe the damp cloth over a section of the truck , followed at once by a clean towel, follwed by a quick light fast buffing with the cleanest towel .........and your done ......none of this use a cutting pad and run a porter cable this ...thats BS ......just get some Liquid Glass do it like I say and your truck will gleam and glow and be protected.Remember I have 15 Years professional detailing experience, and over 4400 cars detailed , myself !

ahh............ you can mess paint up by hand, and therefore , yes you can mess paint up with any buffer. we see all the inferior results of folks who don't properly buff their vehicles by themselves or at the car wash, having the latinos do it. Most notibly you see it in black cars, with stripe looking swirls from buffing in one direction and at the incorrect speed and with the incorrect technique.

Messing up a $30k truck is one thing for the nissan owners, but how about using the wrong method on the only yellow vector in the world ( my client's, $1,000,000 car.....or my clients several ( 3 ) Porsche Carrera GT's @ $450,000+ a pop ...or one of my best Ferrari clients with 11 different ferrari's. You gonna say oops , sorry ......chit someone else, you'll be painting there cars , or maybe they'll sue you for the damages. I have $2.5m Liability coverage to handle any problems, but in all of my 15 yrs of Professional detailing ( I've washed and waxed cars, my own and families for over 35 years ), yes Professional detailing , there is a difference..., I've never used the insurance or had a claim against me !!!

So back to above comments a few posts ago......who are you gonna trust with your Nissan .....Some guy who says you can't mess you vehicle up with DA or even a orbital or some one who professionally details for a living and has tons of referrals, etc. ( craigslist.com in the SF Bay Area, under automotive services , search for my screen name ) and the last thing , Pictures speak a thousand words.....his clients pics are where ?

[anthony914]

So i guess this guy is not a professional: :rolleyes because he didn't use 3M
Bella Macchina: 07 Maserati - Autopia Car Detailing Forum

[cctmobiledetail]

Originally Posted by anthony914

So i guess this guy is not a professional: :rolleyes because he didn't use 3M
Bella Macchina: 07 Maserati - Autopia Car Detailing Forum

I never said that , ........MOST Professionals use 3m and have for longer than you've been alive. The guys who worked on the Maserati, did a nice job. Lets see your car or truck that you have detailed ! If you haven't a car to show that you personally detailed ....then your just talking out the side of your neck ...



here are some more Clients Pics :

Black $450,000 Porsche Carrera GT



Red Saleen



Black Range Rover ( see the reflection of the bushes )



Classic '66 F 100



"Pebble Beach Edition" ( only 50 made ) Lexus SC 430



$200,000 Noble ( V8 Blown )



Before and After Shot ( Color Sanded and Buffed with "3M" )



Before and after shot wetsanded and buffed with 3M

Black Saleen Truck


Black Porsche



Black Lifted Toyota



Ultima GTR - 700hp, 1600lbs, 0-60 = 2.6 sec, 232 mph



$1,000,000 Prevost Marathon Coach



Only Yellow Vector W8 in the world , $1,000,000 , 504 ci Keith Black Hemi