Need advice on polishing

[Grand]

I been looking into buying an UDM(Ultimate Detailing Machine)buffer and wondering if anybody on here has any info on what pads and products they use when using a buffer. What steps. I know you wash and then clay bar. But after that what steps do you take with the buffer. What polish do you start with and what pads. My paint in in great condition on my truck and doesnt need that much correction. Thanks

[Phil'sFrontier]

I think it is more important to do a thorough job on the initial wash and clay, so you remove as much debris as possible. Then just follow the instructions on the wax container I would say.
I like using microfibre clothes as they are cheap and reusable.

[cctmobiledetail]

Originally Posted by Grand

I been looking into buying an UDM(Ultimate Detailing Machine)buffer and wondering if anybody on here has any info on what pads and products they use when using a buffer. What steps. I know you wash and then clay bar. But after that what steps do you take with the buffer. What polish do you start with and what pads. My paint in in great condition on my truck and doesnt need that much correction. Thanks

All depends of the condition of your truck , if you haven't run a buffer before , you may want to go practice on your neighbor's car or something else than your vehicle your trying to make better as if incorrectly buffed , you can make your paint striped looking from buffing in one direction, swirled out with spider web swirls and even burn the clear off if you don't know about edge work and the like.

That being said, what are the conditions of the truck and what color is it ? A good photo of it would allow me to give you the best method of professionally detailing your truck ! Being that every car is different; how well it's kept clean, how often has it been waxed in the past, is it driven in the country most of the time partially on dirt roads or in the city or by factories and heavy industry, what product have you used on it in the past to wax your vehicle and what is the reason you want to buff it now or what is the paint's clarity level that makes you think it needs to be buffed.

Know that there are a variety of Clay Makers out there as well as clays made specifically for each situation ( Mothers Clay is Crap ). Smoothing, overspray removal, paint pore cleaning, paint stripping are all clays thjat can be brought to the table.......

so please provide more information and a picture and I'll diagnose your specific situation.

You can also check out the posting on Buffing a Hood I posted the other day for more suggestions as well as some of my Clients cars to give you and idea.

Good Luck

[Grand]

I find a picture later. but it is a storm grey truck. I always wash it with good microfiber mits and towels. Never been though a car wash. The paint is in awsome shape. I going to practice on a old car first but Im trying to find out what polishes I should first buy. Or what line of Polishes and pads to get. Thanks

[cctmobiledetail]

All Good Professional Body shop and real detailers use 3M Products ; Compounds, Glazes, swirl mark removers, reducers, levelers, waxes, polishes. 3m also has an extensive collection of buffing pads, in all levels of useage condition ; cutting, compounding, glazing, polishing, etc...

do a search in your area for a Auto body supply or go to

detailsupplydepot.com

[Grand]

thanks alot. I look into those.

[UGA Frontier]

Dude I'm totally against buffers. I've always thought by hand is the way to go. Any microfiber applicator and clothes to take the wax back off. I really like the meguires step 1 for removing touble spots and it actually leaves a really nice smooth shiny surface. Then I use eagle one nanowax. I really like it's ease of use. What I like to do is wash one body part at a time and start with the paint cleaner.

[cctmobiledetail]

Originally Posted by UGA Frontier

Dude I'm totally against buffers. I've always thought by hand is the way to go. Any microfiber applicator and clothes to take the wax back off. I really like the meguires step 1 for removing touble spots and it actually leaves a really nice smooth shiny surface. Then I use eagle one nanowax. I really like it's ease of use. What I like to do is wash one body part at a time and start with the paint cleaner.

Your Correct for the inexperienced, buffers are bad ! But imagine colorsanding a vehicle by hand and then rubbing at 1400 rpm's by hand ( the speed needed ) compound to bring back the shine and luster of the paint. It wouldn't happen !!! Most people who claim to be detailers, like 90% of them don't have a clue how to correctly buff a vehicle. So folks have seen alot of improperly buffed cars out there with there stripes and various buffing mistakes clearly visable on folks cars.

Buffing a vehicle is an art, most manufacturers paint is 6 mils thick about the thickness of notebook paper, so it's easy to Mess up ! So most car owners who do it themselves, don't want to risk messing up there paint ( which I don't blame them ) and buff their cars, that why people such as yourself have heard that waxing your car by hand is best, when in actualality is inferior to a professional detail with a detailer that knows how to buff.

With my 15 Years and 4400+ cars experience , rest assured I know whats up ! My clients cars range in the $100,000 to over $1,000,000 price tags, people with that kind of money in vehicles, want whats best for there cars and expect perfection...thats where I come in. I have many clients with Ferrari's, Lamborghini's, Porsche Gt's, Classics, Hot Rods, etc. that frequent shows like the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance or the Concorso of Carmel, Good Guys Hot Rod shows or Hot August Nights.....all of them expect there rides to be buffed !

Anyway, I hope this clears up people misconceptions about buffing cars.

[NISM0]

Buffing and using any type of aggressive polish or rubbing compound on your 2007 paint is a big mistake unless you are just going to fix a minor scuff, fine scratch or repairing a paint chip. When I buff minor blemishes in my clear coat, I use ScratchX and a 5" 3M buffing wheel on a varible speed drill. It works for me every time.

[cctmobiledetail]

Originally Posted by NISM0

Buffing and using any type of aggressive polish or rubbing compound on your 2007 paint is a big mistake unless you are just going to fix a minor scuff, fine scratch or repairing a paint chip. When I buff minor blemishes in my clear coat, I use ScratchX and a 5" 3M buffing wheel on a varible speed drill. It works for me every time.

Scratch X is inferior and improper to use on your paint. there has been alot of research and development done of automotive paints over the years by such companies as 3M. Using their products and techniques with a buffer is the only tried and true method to restore any automotive paint finish. Whether it be a late model Nissan or a new Ferrari, etc. 3M is the way to detail it correctly. satisfiying with store bought $5.00 a bottle scratch x and a buffer is not what your 2007 Nissan deserves. Think about it , what makes more sense : to listen to someone who uses cheap imitation products of their new paint thinking it's best or listen to a Detailing Professional about correct procedures to restore your finnish. You be the judge.