Before, during, after Waxing

[Nismo86]

So to wax :

1) Wash well
2) Use clay bar over whole car
3) cleaning wax? Which ever wax I choose, then maybe souveran wax?
4) Buff out by hand with microfiber towels or a buff

Correct/Wrong?

[wan2run]

86,

As I've said in other posts, I am a huge fan of Zaino products - http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc . I'm a believer and have been using the products for about 10 years. They have the complete line including clay to detail the truck.

The first step is to wash with Dawn detergent to get all of the contaminants. Check out this write-up - http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...de=APPLICATION

My .02...

[Zero Six LE]

Originally Posted by wan2run

86,

As I've said in other posts, I am a huge fan of Zaino products - http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc . I'm a believer and have been using the products for about 10 years. They have the complete line including clay to detail the truck.

The first step is to wash with Dawn detergent to get all of the contaminants. Check out this write-up - http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...de=APPLICATION

My .02...

The Dawn is only to remove wax and some polishes. The Clay bar removes the contaminants that are left behind after washing.

[Nismo86]

Still don't know if what I said is correct/wrong.. help

[Zero Six LE]

Originally Posted by Nismo86

Still don't know if what I said is correct/wrong.. help

Did you check those websites in the links? They have thet best information regarding how to do what you plan on doing.

[SuperchargedVR]

I call up my friend that owns a detailing business, he stops over and does up the car or truck. He only uses professional stuff ordered out of a magazine, swears up and down that stuff you buy over the counter is all crap(Detailing snot...course he's detailing Bentley's and Lambo's, not to mention Million $ yachts) He has some really great waxes and polishers that make trucks really really shine!!!

If your car is a couple of years old there should be less work to restore the paint (unless its really been trashed). I typically wash it, clay bar, and wax it. Orbital buffers can make a huge difference, If skilled you can heat up the clear coat paint and move it around making small surface scratches go away, leave it on to long and you'll burn your paint!! You can never have too many micro-fiber towels.

[808Chaney]

Originally Posted by SuperchargedVR

I call up my friend that owns a detailing business, he stops over and does up the car or truck. He only uses professional stuff ordered out of a magazine, swears up and down that stuff you buy over the counter is all crap(Detailing snot...course he's detailing Bentley's and Lambo's, not to mention Million $ yachts) He has some really great waxes and polishers that make trucks really really shine!!!

If your car is a couple of years old there should be less work to restore the paint (unless its really been trashed). I typically wash it, clay bar, and wax it. Orbital buffers can make a huge difference, If skilled you can heat up the clear coat paint and move it around making small surface scratches go away, leave it on to long and you'll burn your paint!! You can never have too many micro-fiber towels.

I tend to agree with your friend about the retail stuff being crap. Unfortunately, there is just as much "professional" grade detail supplies that are equally as crappy. We have a company out here that in my opinion sells a bunch of "snake oil"

Orbital buffers can in fact make a huge difference as long as its not the cheap Sears type. If using a polishing compund with an orbital some scratches can be removed or at least reduced. The nice thing with orbitals is they are just that, orbitals and not rotary. You don't have to worry about burning paint with an orbital as long as you have something lubricating the pad ie: polish or waxes & sealers. Deeper scratches will require the use of a rotary buffer, proper pads, compounds, and some degree of skill. Unfortunately clear coat wont actually "move " around but if the scratch is only in the clear coat you can with the use of a rotary buffer level it out and make the scratch a whole lot less noticeable. I once had some jerkhead key the roof of my red Jetta. Luckily it didn't make it all the way through the clear coat into the color. I was able to remove about 99% of the scratch but that one even took some real careful sanding with 2500 grit wet/dry sand paper before I could even think about compounding with my buffer. Sorry I talk so much.

[SuperchargedVR]

wet sanding is a scary thing!!! Yeah there is lots and lots of crap out there. He had some really great stuff that had teflon in it, worked great!!!!

[808Chaney]

Originally Posted by SuperchargedVR

wet sanding is a scary thing!!! Yeah there is lots and lots of crap out there. He had some really great stuff that had teflon in it, worked great!!!!

It is safer than going at paint with a rotary buffer if you don't know what you are doing though. Wet sanding is similar to compunding with a rotary but quicker than compunding. I eventually wet sanded my whole Jetta by hand with a sanding block to get rid of all the orange peel. I then brought the shine back with polish and then finished with a glaze. Paint looked soaking wet and about 3 feet deep when I was finished. Ya gotta be real careful around corners & edges when wet sanding.

[Nismo86]

I did read those links, just making sure, once again :

1) Wash well
2) Use clay bar over whole car
3) cleaning wax? Which ever wax I choose, then maybe souveran wax?
4) Buff out by hand with microfiber towels or a buff