considering either a sub/enclosure package or a powered sub. I am not looking to rattle anything loose. I enjoy country, rock, and sometimes some rap. Just want to have a well rounded system.
Don't go with a self contained unit, it is like handcuffing yourself to your choice. Go with a class D mono block and a sub to match. Then if you decide down the road to change the sub you can without having to deal with another all-in-one.
Most self-contained units are huge compromises, made in the interest of being able to squeeze into the smallest possible space. In a Frontier, you don't NEED a sub system that occupies the smallest possible space - There's plenty of room.
Generally, using a separate amp and sub/enclosure allows you to use a bigger enclosure and sub(s), because the amp can be located somewhere else in the cab.
On current-generation Frontiers, the space under the passenger front seat makes an excellent place to mount a monoblock amp - which leaves you with a lot of room for a sub/enclosure under the rear seats.
The Alpine unit would blow away the other two (with the proper amp). The Pioneer would be the next closest but a ways down in terms of SQ and a little less SPL. The Alpine is a full size sub not a shallow mount like the Pioneer, usually this equates to better everything. I have heard good things about the Pioneer shallows but they still don't compare to a standard R- series Alpine. I would not even consider the Kenwood as its not even close to the same level as the other two. My .02s as requested
Check out the link in my sig to help you compare more for yourself.
That would be a pretty good fit for the Alpine(slightly more RMS @4ohms would be better) but thats a great deal on that amp. I like Kenwood Amps, they are not the best of the best but are better than most. The Excelon series are nice too, I have an Excelon head unit I'm quite fond of
How would the sound quality if he kept the stock head unit. Also as anyone put a box elsewhere besides under the rear seats in a cc. I use the compartments. Behind the rest seats would be cool I think.
Even with how shallow slim subs are compared to a regular there is simply no room besides under the seats. Behind the seats is so shallow I barly fit more than an umbrella back there and the emergency jack.
I would suggest getting the subwoofer you want that will fit and have an enclosure built under the rear seats for it. You would benefit a lot from just replacing the front door speakers with something higher quality.
My amp is under the pass front seat. I had this 10" sealed box already and it fits perfectly on the rear floor. It comes out in no time if I need the space.
I'd recommend none of those. For a loaded enclosure there is only two choices IMHO, both from JL. The MicroSub for ported and the Power Wedge for sealed. I have the 8" MicroSub and I can say it easily outshines all of the options in your post.
The only draw back to this is that for 90% of the people that build them they are going to be restricted to a sealed enclosure as box tuning will be over the head of many DIYers.
Thank you all for your input! I ended up going with a 10" JL sub mounted in a custom sealed box. It is powered by a kenwood excelon 500 amp (300w RMS at 4ohms).
Already in the truck is 4 6x9'' kenwood speakers run by a kenwood ddx 470 HU. The problem is that the HU is only providing 22w RMS and the speakers can do 80w. So, now I am looking into a 4 channel amp and finishing this mother off.
So the question is, can I run 1 8ga power line to power both amps? If so, would I only fuse it once at the battery? The amp I am looking at for this is a kenwood excelon xr400-4.
Again, I am not trying to rattle anything loose, I just dont like all the distortion I get with the lack of power the HU provides.
I should mention that this is not going in a frontier (sold it)... I am putting it in my F150. However, to the compliment of CF, the other f150 forums are a bit unresponsive and lacking in helpful members. So, for generic stuff such as this, ClubFrontier is the bomb. Thank you guys and gals!
I would be uncomfortable with 8awg running both as once your really have the system cranked you would be way over the safe amperage for 8awg. Your system has a safe amperage number of about 130amps combined (probably will never be this high, but is worst case). Assuming your run of wiring is 13-16 ft you would need 2awg to be safe. What I would do (and did in my truck) is pick up a dual amp wiring kit that is 2 awg into two 4awg using a distribution block. So a main run of 2awg fused at battery run to somewhere in the cab where the distro block is mounted and then from there 4awg to each amp. Some of the kits even have a fused distro block two isolate each amp in the case of a short. My .02 again!
Mounted the amps last night. I am going to run 4ga from the battery to the splitter in the pics, then it is 8ga from the splitter to each amp. Both amps fit nicely behind the back seat. Now for the fun part of running wires....
I just used the screws that came with them, not really sheet metal screws, a little more course of threads than that. But they hold fine. I used some small rubber gaskets on the screws between the bottom of the amp and the cab (to insulate and reduce vibration).
I wired them up today, but my power wire still hasnt come in yet so they dont work quite yet.
2x 10" JL Audio W1's... that's what I have. Super cheap on-line when I got them. And it's about as much as you can fit in the truck without wasting too much space. I have them both under my back seat and Pioneer amps under each of the front seats.
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