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Old 07-15-2008, 07:56 PM
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Polk MMC650 or db651? (calling ToddG)

After a month of ownership I'm ready to replace the speakers. I was browsing Crutchfield and they have the Polk MMC650 at a $50 discount for $99. ToddG and others have recommended the db651 as an all around good speaker and they're also $99 (not on sale). Since I plan on keeping the stock head unit I'm more impressed with the efficiency of the db651 (+2db) but it's hard to beat the extra 2yr warranty with the MMC650 and perceived build quality. Anyone have any suggestions for either as a rear speaker?

More info: Again I'm not getting rid of the stock head unit. For me, the stock HU "seems" to have plenty of power for what I need and I love the in-dash changer, MP3 capability and the steering wheel controls. The stock speakers just seem too dull and don't seem to handle the power very well (hopefully that's not distortion from the HU).

Other plans: I grabbed a set of Avincar 6x9 "subwoofers" off of eBay recently. Avincar is a high end audio shop out west that had their own speaker line at one time. In 2005 they were targeting OEM replacement speakers for BMW and Acura who used 6x9s in their stock system. All reviews said they were a great replacement 6x9s when used with stock HUs. Since that's the direction I'm going, and I got a good deal, I thought I'd give them a shot. Now that leaves the stock tweeters in the dash, so I still need to figure out a replacement there. Any suggestions for a drop in replacement is welcome.
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Old 07-15-2008, 09:18 PM
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Todd will be with you shortly. He's out cashing his commision check from Polk.

Seriously though, It's unclear reading your post in that:
a) you are looking to replace ALL your speakers or ...? I would suggest components fro the front ( ie. like Polk MMC650o of DB6501) to cover your doors AND dash. It's going to make life much simpler in the end (vs playing impedance games latter on.)
b) Your keeping the HU but are you planning to add an amp?
Your HU will only put out about 12% of what those Mommo's call for . The DB's crave less power but either will starve for power ( and won't sound to potential) with a low powered HU. Consider adding an amp if you arn't already.

FWIW: I've run Polk DB650s off a factory HU (in my Toyota) and the improvement was barely worth the $/ effort IMHO.
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Last edited by WeeHooker : 07-15-2008 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 07-16-2008, 11:34 AM
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you will not be happy with those speakers and the factory deck. the deck is really the weak point of the system. when i changed out my deck it was a HUGE improvement over stock even with the stock speakers. my aftermarket deck is a little more powerful than most putting out a true 25w per ch. problem now is the factory speakers are starting to give out. i would change out the deck first then the speakers. if you feed the best speakers a crap signal there still going to sound like crap.
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Old 07-16-2008, 12:47 PM
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As these gents said, the stock head unit just doesn't put out near the power that you need for components. That is unless you have the RF system, in which you would have an amp. So I guess that might be my first question, do you have the RF system?
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Old 07-18-2008, 10:00 AM
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Geez, I must have been slacking to miss this thread.

Weehooker, it's just the opposite, Polk is cashing my checks . . lol.

Anyway, the db651s are an excellent choice for the rear locations. They give good fill and really components would be overkill imo (which is basically what the MMC650 amounts to sans the separated speakers).

Remember thought that mine are amped at 75watts a speaker.

As far as the fronts, I personally wouldn't mix and match woofers and tweeters up front. I know for a fact that matched component sets (no matter which manufacturer) will always be much easier to get good SQ out of. They have crossovers built specifically for that application/speaker set and "plug and play" with no hassles.

As far as the HU with the aftermarket speakers. The factory deck will probably make those speakers sound like poo without an aftermarket amp. If you are hell bent on keeping the factory deck get a line level converter and an aftermarket amp of decent wattage. Your speakers and ears will thank you. Even the RF system (with OEM amp) would probably barely drive the DB's and surely not to their fullest potential and optimum SQ.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gti16vman View Post
That is unless you have the RF system, in which you would have an amp. So I guess that might be my first question, do you have the RF system?
Yes, he has the in-dash changer, to my knowledge that would be the RF system.
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Last edited by ToddG : 07-18-2008 at 11:47 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 07-18-2008, 02:03 PM
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could be wrong, but i thought the KC RF systems had internal amps?? in which case it wont have much power. and if it does have external amp its probally made to have decent power at 2ohm and not 4 ohm.
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Old 07-18-2008, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SQnismo View Post
if it does have external amp its probally made to have decent power at 2ohm and not 4 ohm.
THAT is the question of the day.
2ohm amplification and 4ohm speakers won't play nice together.
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Old 07-18-2008, 02:12 PM
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i hooked up some old 6x9s a while back to the front output of my RF amp and they sounded like ****. and werent loud at all. hooked them up to the rear and they sounded a bit better. so i figured the amp was designed to run only at 2ohm in the front and 4ohm in the rear.
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Old 07-18-2008, 02:18 PM
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I only had the plain jane single cd that I replaced.
I've seen enough questions on here pertaining to what ohm the different stereos (RF and single CD) run at.

Like I said in my write up all four OEM speakers I yanked had 2ohm on the back of them.
The tweeters are still up in the dash not hooked up so don't know about them.

It sure would be nice to know these things, it would really clear up some of the questions that even I can't necessarily answer not knowing what ohms the system is rated/running at.
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