The days project: Amp and sub! - Page 7

S0UL_CHICKEN · #61 (**permalink**) 01-02-2013, 12:02 AM

I am glad it went together well, not sure about the SRS though (not sure what that is - Skid Reduction??)... but it sounds like x_mods has the answer for you. I have only replaced the HU and installed the mono sub, with only one minor issue which was VDC. It came on when I first started the truck, and couldn't get it to shut off with the button, but after a run of 300 feet or so, it went off. I didn't think much of it at the time since it turned off rather quickly.

I am so stoked about changing out the factory junk and installing the 4-channel! I can only imagine the difference it makes! I was getting worried on the amp as it was in NJ for four days, with no sign of moving!! SHEESH! At least on last check it is in Phoenix, so it should be here tomorrow. Or should I say it better be?? HA! Are you going to do a write up on the speaker install? Just curious as I am nervous about the door panel removal.

**x_mods** · #62 (**permalink**) 01-02-2013, 12:20 AM

SRS is the airbags: Supplemental Restraint System.

The airbag light might be one of those open/close the door 10 times and turn the key 3.5 times things...

If NC doesn't want to do a write up I can tell you what you need to know and take a few pics.

truckin_NC · #63 (**permalink**) 01-02-2013, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by x_mods

SRS is the airbags: Supplemental Restraint System.

The airbag light might be one of those open/close the door 10 times and turn the key 3.5 times things...

If NC doesn't want to do a write up I can tell you what you need to know and take a few pics.

X - I hope that fixes it! I haven't actually driven my truck since finishing my install but I will test that fix today. A few months ago I accidentally drained the battery overnight and had to jump start it. The VDC light came on then and went away shortly after driving.

S0UL - Here is a link to the Master Sheet on removing the door panels: Radio (how to take the dash apart) - PHOTOS.TOY4RUNNER.COM

I found that on this forum while digging around for stereo write ups. It's pretty straight forward to remove the door panels, though the rears were more resistant to popping off. I have a set of panel removal tools that i bought from Crutchfield and those helped getting the panels off without marking them. They are like mini crowbars made of plastic. I think it was $12 for the set.

For the fronts you need a 10mm socket, a pick (or small flat head screw driver) and the panel tool (or, again, a small flat head screw driver). Start with the plastic trim in the door pull (two pieces) and that will reveal one 10mm bolt. The master sheet says its a screw but in my truck it was a bolt. Then move to the arm rest. There are plastic clips all around the bottom edge of the arm rest. This one was stubborn, but pry up along the edge to remove it. When it is off you'll see two 10mm bolts with philips screw heads. You can use either a socket or screwdriver to remove these. Once those are out, you can start popping off the door panel. I started from the hinge side and worked down, then over, then up the opposite side. When all those clips are out, wiggle the door up and off the window seal. The power window and locks will still be connected and unplug these if you can. I found them to be the biggest pain in the a** to get free.

For the rears, you need a 14mm socket and a pry tool/flat-head screw driver. First, pop the plastic caps off of the top and bottom seat belt anchors. The top is two pieces - an outer plastic trim and the interior pull piece that adjusts the height of the seat belt. BE CAREFUL to NOT pop off the plastic pull that allows you to move the top up and down. I did this by accident on the second door and I haven't been able to get it back on yet. Once you remove the top and bottom bolts, you're ready to start popping off the door panel. ONE NOTE - make sure the clips come off with the door panel. The orange clips that hold the door panel on are near impossible to remove without breaking if they somehow slip out of the door panel.

Hope that helps! I'm going to upload photos to a flickr site and then link them here. Stay tuned...

S0UL_CHICKEN · #64 (**permalink**) 01-02-2013, 08:42 AM

NICE! Those are the best instructions I have seen for the door panel removal. Great write up too!

I am looking forward to getting started as I am getting tired of looking at my speakers just sitting there collecting dust. I pulled the trigger on the battery terminal upgrade as well, which should be here Thursday. Come on Saturday!!

truckin_NC · #65 (**permalink**) 01-02-2013, 10:48 AM

Oh, btw, the speakers in the front are held in with 8mm bolts. I used a tall 1/4in socket attached to a nut driver. These bolts do not have a philips head like the 10mm ones that hold in the rear speakers.

I am eager to hear how your install goes and how that new battery terminal works out!

truckin_NC · #66 (**permalink**) 01-02-2013, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by x_mods

Is that the airbag light? I know in my 2010 when I took out the factory radio I had to unplug the airbag light, and then when I put it all back together the airbag warning was on, and my VDC light stayed on. Just had to drive in a straight line for about 1/4 mile and it went away.

I went out this morning and almost immediately the VDC light went out but the airbag light is still flashing after about 40 miles of driving. Maybe it's because when I first fired up the truck I hadn't yet reconnected the airbag light by the radio? I am tempted to disconnect the battery again, wait a few minutes, and then reconnect it and see if that changes anything.

S0UL_CHICKEN · #67 (**permalink**) 01-02-2013, 12:10 PM

Yeah, that would do it - I would start by disconnecting the ground, waiting three minutes, and reconnect it to see if the issue goes away. When people call in for those kinds of warning lights here at Ford, that is the first thing I have them try.

truckin_NC · #68 (**permalink**) 01-02-2013, 01:08 PM

PICS - Flickr: Truckin_NC's Photostream

I tried to provide good details with most of the photos. Hope it all makes sense!

Also I realized I took a lot of photos at first but then got busy and forgot to keep taking them...oops. I will go back out later and take some good 'after' shots.

Enjoy!

S0UL_CHICKEN · #69 (**permalink**) 01-02-2013, 03:33 PM

NICE JOB!! As always, a question for ya.

Did the heater vent under the seat get in the way of the amp lying flat? I know mine will fit under the seat, but not sure how it will sit with that vent going through there.

**x_mods** · #70 (**permalink**) 01-02-2013, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckin_NC

I went out this morning and almost immediately the VDC light went out but the airbag light is still flashing after about 40 miles of driving. Maybe it's because when I first fired up the truck I hadn't yet reconnected the airbag light by the radio? I am tempted to disconnect the battery again, wait a few minutes, and then reconnect it and see if that changes anything.

Now I remember, you need to do this (post #3): Airbag light flashing after stereo install

It is because you disconnected the airbag light and turned the key before reconnecting it. It always happens of the key is turned when there is a component missing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckin_NC

PICS - Flickr: Truckin_NC's Photostream

I tried to provide good details with most of the photos. Hope it all makes sense!

Also I realized I took a lot of photos at first but then got busy and forgot to keep taking them...oops. I will go back out later and take some good 'after' shots.

Enjoy!

Nice pics! I must have missed the part where you said you had a zuk, looks good!

Love the rain shelter