Alright! All finished and ready to lay it all out with a ton of pictures of the install.
Revisions: Added pictures of the soft-tools, and the finished 6x9.
Working: Wiring color change on front doors, trying to figure out positive and negative leads.
Thank you's: x_mods for the support, glamisdude for the feedback, and truckin_NC for the technical help. I could not have done this without any of your help!!
4-Channel Amp: MB Quart 4.80 Onyx - 80 RMS to each channel @ 4ohms
6.5 Alpine Type S SPS-610G Rear door speakers @ 80 RMS
6x9 Alpine Type S SPS-619 Front door speakers @ 85 RMS
You can find the specs for the front speakers HERE
, the specs to the rear speakers HERE
, and the specs to the amp HERE
This is a two part post due to a 1000 character limit. Lets start part 1!
Here we go! I started off running the wiring, and mounting the fuse next to the mono amp fuse.
I then drilled a hole next to the one already in the firewall on the drivers side, to the left of the brake pedal. I ran two separate power wires as I didn't feel comfortable going with only one, and then branching off.
The wiring kit I purchased only came with 17 feet of 4GA wiring, so I purchased another 10 feet from a local audio retail/installer. Since I knew I was going to be short, I had to get a mechanical connector to connect the two wires together. I purchased one from Lowes, which also came with a length of heat shrink to keep it insulated.
I then ran the wiring up behind the dash brackets and wedged the mechanical connector behind one of those brackets.
I then ran the 4GA under the blower motor for the heater/AC and across to the far right of the vehicle. The instructions said not to run the power wire next to any RCA's, so that is why I went the long way around.
The next step was to figure out how to mount the 4-channel. x_mods was gracious enough to point out that there were three receiving nuts on the floor, but when I pulled back the carpet I found several 'anchors' in the floorboard.
Much to my disappointment, the 4.80 Onyx amp was bigger than I thought, so on my dry-fit I ended up removing the vent to the back. Since I did that, I went ahead and blocked off the vent where it attaches. Doing so actually moves more air to my footwell - esp. to the passenger side. My wife doesn't mind that at all. We don't have kids, so the back seats are never used, and it will keep the heat away from the 4-channel amp, and my subwoofer.
I ran the RCA cables and speaker wire along the center console to keep distance from the 4GA. Once I had them all run, I went ahead and attached all leads, remote, power, and ground. I used two large rubber grommets under the front of the amp and used two m6x1.0 screws to lock it down. I did not use any hardware on the back side since the amp sat on a section of carpet with very thick padding.
I was going to run all new wiring, but my time was limited at the shop today. I ended up running the 16GA wiring right up to the head unit and tapped in there. Since everything was connected and tight, I re-connected the battery and fired up the stereo to make sure everything was connected properly and working. Stage one completed and successful!!!
Stage two was to replace the factory 20A speakers with Alpine Type S 6.5's and 6x9's. Once it gets warm again, I will more than likely run all new speaker wire to the doors, but for now it will pass.
First off, I recommend replacing all four speakers, and testing the system before you put everything back together. Pictures from here on out are on the drivers side. I recommend getting a set of soft-tools to remove any panels, door trim, head unit trim to keep you from scratching everything up. I found this set at a local Autozone for 18 bucks. I used only the two on the left to remove the panels.
The passenger side has an extra panel on the lower left, but you will get the idea once you tackle the driver side. On that note, let's start off with the suicide doors. First, remove the covering on the upper connection on the seat belt with your soft-tools. DO NOT REMOVE THE SLIDER BUTTON!!
The bottom of the belt on the drivers side simply lifts up, making it easy to get to the 14mm bolt.
Remove the upper and lower bolts and let the belt dangle. Next it's time to get the panel off. I started at the top and popped the top two clips and once I had them loose, all I had to do was move down each side and pulled them out by hand. If you have an orange clip stay in the door, don't panic. You can pop them out with one of the soft-tools and put it back in the panel.
Here is the panel removed, you can see all the orange clips in the panel. Note the two top clips are a part of the panel itself, which is why I started there.
All that is left is to remove the factory junk, and install the Alpines. I cut the wiring right at the connector, and spliced in the wiring that came with the speakers. The factory 6.5 is one unit, including the standoff. I did not use any of it, rather took a 1/8th drill bit and drilled new holes into the door, and mounted it that way. You may need to hack the standoff if you have a rather tall speaker as there is a support bracket behind the speaker position. Have a dremel ready in case you run into this issue. I pulled up the plastic under the speaker mount and ran my hand up behind the speaker after it was mounted and found I had about a half an inch clearance.
When you go to put your panel back on (AFTER YOU HAVE TESTED THE SYSTEM), the outer weatherstripping may get pinched behind the panel. Use your soft-tool to pull it back out.
Here is finished look:
See the next post to continue the front door as there is a 1000 character cut-off. Thanks!!