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2014 Headunit install - Retain all OEM features (Cam, USB port, & Satellite Antenna)

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#1 · (Edited)
2014 Headunit install - Retain all OEM features (Cam, USB port, & Satellite Antenna)

2014 Frontier SV headunit replacement - ALL oem features intact (Steering wheel controls, bluetooth, oem location USB port, satellite radio antenna…) no oem wires cut... (maybe 6 to bypass bluetooth module but jumpers could be used)

2014 - Probably more years (I used 2013 model year as a starting point for my research)


Here is your shopping list:

1) Axxess AX-NIS32SWC
Axxess AX-NIS32SWC - Sonic Electronix

Required to maintain use of the OEM reverse camera

2) Axxess AX-NISUSB-2
Axxess AX-NISUSB-2 Retain OE USB Port on Select Nissan Vehicles

Required to maintain oem location USB port

3) Metra 95-7619
Metra 95-7619 (met-957619) Car Stereo Installation Dash Kit for

Dash trim kit

4) Metra 70-7552
Metra 70-7552 (met-707552) Wiring Harness for Select 2007-2008

This is the same harness for a Subaru. IMPORTANT - Go to Subaru radio and radio wiring harness information and order your harness from David. He has a great reputation in the Subaru community. Make sure you order a harness for the 2008+ impreza or 20 pin harness, and make sure you order the one with the extra steering wheel control wires. (The pin out is identical to the Frontier, only numbered differently. This is plug and play!). Here is his link for ordering the harness:

ae64.com - Subaru Radio Wiring Harness - Order Form

Be patient with him he is the only person running the show but you will get your harness. And it works!

You will not have to cut any oem wires if you use this harness from ae64. If you purchase the metra harness, you will have to tap into the oem wires.



5) Metra 40-NI12
Metra 40-NI12 (met-40ni12) Antenna Cable to Aftermarket Radio

You will have to have this as the nissan headunit antenna input is different than the aftermarket standard. The blue wire is not used unless you have a power antenna.

6) Axxess ASWC-1
Axxess ASWC-1 (ASWC1) Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface

Steering wheel control module (Translates Nissan signals to something the aftermarket unit can understand).

7) Sirius XM Radio FAKRA Antenna Adapter

Amazon.com : Sirius XM Radio FAKRA Antenna Adapter Connector Sirius XM Radio Factory Antenna Adapter : Other Products : Everything Else


Instructions: I highly recommend soldering all connections!

Wire everything to the manufacturer's instructions. Do not deviate from Axxess ASWC-1 module's wiring instructions. The wiring harness (AX-NIS32SWC) is only for the reverse camera and therefore the square plug that normally plugs into the ASWC-1 and the lead that plugs into the remote control input on your new headunit are not used. Tape them up, you will use the wiring harness that came with the ASWC-1. The following are the instructions for the AX-NIS32SWC:

• Connect the Red wire to 12-volt accessory.
• Connect the Black wire to ground.
• Connect the Yellow RCA to your aftermarket radio "Camera in"
(if equipped with OE backup camera).
• Connect the Green/Purple wire to the reverse wire of the aftermarket
radio (if equipped with OE backup camera).

For the ASWC-1 and the Wiring harness from ae64.com -

1) Connect the Black wire of the ASWC-1 to chassis ground.
2) Connect the Red wire of the ASWC-1 to a 12-volt accessory wire, one that turns on and off with the ignition key.
3) Connect the Gray/Blue wire of the ASWC-1 to pin 6 of the vehicle. (Brown/Red wire from harness)
4) Connect the Gray/Red wire of the ASWC-1 to pin 16 of the vehicle.(Brown/Blue wire from Harness)
5) Connect pin 15 of the vehicles harness to chassis ground. You may use the same chassis ground as the black wire. (Brown/Black wire from harness).

This is what my wiring harnesses looked like with everything connected before I taped them up for a little added security and to reduce vibration noise behind the dash:



The Satellite antenna adapter is small, be careful not to lose it.




I will post pictures tomorrow when I get home from work of the install. Just didn’t have time to get it all done today.

A bit of additional information on speakers - the dash speakers are size 2.75 I found actual tweets in this location to be too bright, and have instead replaced them with these full range speakers from Memphis Car Audio: 15PR275 - Memphis Car Audio

They fit perfectly...

For reference, the following are the things I have installed into my truck:

Pioneer Headunit (AVH-X3700BHS)
Pioneer Amp (GM-D8604) Powering
Kicker 41KSC6934 in doors @ 100 watts RMS (I chose these for frequency response, efficiency, and sound quality compared to the components in my budget)
Alpine type S 10 inch sub @ 300 Watts RMS (Leftover from my STi build) looking to Purchase a Kicker 8 for space savings...
And finally the Memphis Car Audio 2.75 are being driven by the head unit. these have a passive 12 db crossover set @ 300hz. This way I can still use the Headunit Crossover to allow a little more mid bass to play through the 6x9s

Anyway...My audiophile on a budget setup - Sounds great to me please refrain from telling me what I should have done.

PART 2

PART 3 - Bluetooth module bypass
 
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#6 · (Edited)
A continuation from my original post, and to answer a few questions:

First, the rear of the Factory radio looks like this:



Starting at the top - the wiring harness from here (large white connection) is where your harness for the reverse cam will go.

Next "row" down sort of... the round connection is where the Satellite radio antenna attached.

Bottom Row - Starting at the left: Main radio wiring harness attached here (speakers, power, etc). Next, not used with the install, the blue port is where the USB from the console comes into the headunit. Finally is the antenna input.

For the Satellite radio connection the adapter is all you will need. I did not use or even, think I might need an extension cable. With most aftermarket radios, the satellite radio is an add on module and has enough cord attatched to it that it allows for some creative placements. The same satellite module is used for most all aftermarket headunits.

SiriusXM Connect Vehicle Tuner - Shop - SiriusXM Radio


The brass adapter plugs into the pink plug and then into the antenna input for the Satellite module.



I felt that a little tape and a zip tie were necessary to establish a connection that would not wiggle or vibrate loose.

I can confirm that Satellite radio works on my vehicle, if installed with this adapter. (Alternatively you can just remove the pink part of the connection and make the connection.)

I can also confirm that the USB port in the center console also operates as it should. This blue plug with the "funky" 45 degree angle is what connects to your part AX-NISUSB-2. (which then plugs directly into the rear USB input of your headunit).



As a note of frustration, everything worked as it should. I Will probably purchase the cable to program the ASWC-1 with custom functions, (I hate the going through the flashing light method of doing custom button assignments) but the controls work adequately as they are. The metra dash kit I referenced originally is a piece of crap. I don't know if it is my particular headunit, or just the way metra designed the kit, but my headunit would not fit into the opening...I had to heavily modify the kit for it to work. and still I am not happy with the appearance. You will definitely need some small flat washers to have a secure connection to the front of the dash. I would have like too have been able to reuse the metal brackets from the OEM radio but they did not allow the Pioneer headunit to fit flush with the dash. I am now looking for a dash kit from another company that will fit my radio installation better.
 
#8 ·
My cam works fine. I did ground it on the harness, I think I had 4 or 5 wires on the ground lead (that is why I recommend soldering the connections). But as far as image quality, I think it is about the same as the OEM unit although given my screen is larger, the guide lines are no longer visible, and the quality of the cam is probably not as good as an aftermarket version, contributes to the "fuzzy" image. I will snap a pic of my reverse image in the morning. I am working a double shift today and wont be able to get to it until then.

Besides I still need to set up my amp gains etc...
 
#9 · (Edited)
My bluetooth buttons on the steering wheel do not work. Thought that I could program them once I received the cable to program the awc-1 with my android phone.

This: AX-OTG1AN [AX-OTG1AN] Axxess Integrate, Comprehensive Interface Products

But when I was trying to pair my phone to the new radio I noticed that it was still paired to and could see the frontier's original bluetooth pairing. (I had not yet realized that the bluetooth was a separate module). Then I discovered the following thread:

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/...tooth-bypass-info-pointers-79162/#post1094494

and studied this document that the OP had linked...

I also have a link to the 2014 factory service manual, and earlier. It appears that the pin out is identical to previous models. The 32 pin harness is the same. I am going to try to perform the bypass per the isntructions with small jumpers. I will report back my findings. My bluetooth module includes 1 extra harness that I am unsure to it's function...



Just a quick pic of the module under the passenger seat. I will try to mess with this tomorrow morning or Monday.

SUCCESS!!!
 
#10 ·
Dang, this thread is about a week too late for me... I would have definately gone with the wiring harness you suggested. I ended up buying two Metra harnesses and then removing/adding pins to make one complete one. When I swap out the factory radio for an aftermarket, I will go your route.
 
#11 · (Edited)
SUCCESS!!! I can confirm that the bluetooth module bypass listed in my previous post works for the 2014. (Therefore meaning that it will most likely work for all model years leading up to and probably 2015 as well).

I will still need to remap the controls as the hangup or "on hook" button auto programs to mute (I think it did in my STi as well). I will order the cable from Sonicelectronix that allows for android device programing of the ASWC-1.

As for the bypass, I nipped the wires coresponding to the appropriate pin out (below is the colors from the 2014 Service manual) and connected the wires to perform the bypass.

Wire Color - pin out for bypass for the 2014:

Connect pin 12 to pin 17 (12-brown, 17-violet)
Connect pin 13 to pin 18 (13-blue, 18-light green)
Connect pin 14 to pin 19 (14-green, 19-orange)

Link to instructions etc. in previous post here.
 
#37 ·
Some questions about this post:

1. Was the bypass' only purpose to keep the steering wheel controls working (without having it plugged into the OEM bluetooth module)?

2. (depending on the answer to #1 ) Can the actual OEM bluetooth module can be unbolted and completely removed from the vehicle?

3. Did you ever manage to get the "hangup" button remapped correctly?

4. Was the "hangup" button the only button not working on the steering wheel?
 
#14 ·
I'm very, very, VERY on the fence about pulling the trigger on upgrading the HU in my '13 SV. This thread has given me hope that I can upgrade!! Now, I just have to figure out if it's worth it to me. LOL

The whole reason that I haven't up until now was that I was afraid of losing the backup camera and steering wheel controls.

My question(s) would be:

1. What did all the adapters/harnesses cost?

2. Does everything fit behind the dash without a struggle?

I currently have the stock HU, but replaced all the speakers and put in a 4 ch amp to power them. I'd love to remove the amp and let the HU do the work instead. PLUS I would FINALLY have Bluetooth audio streaming...this is big for me since all I do is stream Pandora and Amazon Prime Music. I have to plug the my phone in now using the AUX-IN cable and its a bit of a pain.
 
#16 ·
I'm very, very, VERY on the fence about pulling the trigger on upgrading the HU in my '13 SV. This thread has given me hope that I can upgrade!! Now, I just have to figure out if it's worth it to me. LOL

The whole reason that I haven't up until now was that I was afraid of losing the backup camera and steering wheel controls.

My question(s) would be:

1. What did all the adapters/harnesses cost?
Cost: I put links to everything in my original post. Sonic has good prices but they are not authorized dealers for some...They will honor warranties internally, so if that bothers you shop else-where.

2. Does everything fit behind the dash without a struggle?
Everything fits. Depending on how neat you are with your wiring.

I currently have the stock HU, but replaced all the speakers and put in a 4 ch amp to power them. I'd love to remove the amp and let the HU do the work instead. PLUS I would FINALLY have Bluetooth audio streaming...this is big for me since all I do is stream Pandora and Amazon Prime Music. I have to plug the my phone in now using the AUX-IN cable and its a bit of a pain.
My amp is under the driver's seat. I would not recommend going without an amp, but that is dependant on the amp you currently have, the speakers you currently have etc. You might be okay if you have some super efficient boutique speakers... But I suspect an amp will make you happier.

There are some tradeoffs you will most likely lose the lines on the reverse cam, and will not be impressed with the image... but it works and is adequate. The steering wheel controls can be a bit more complicated depending on your willingness to fiddle with things. Read my thread, it should give you instructions for everything you need to do the job. I think I was very thorough.
 
#15 ·
I will always recommend a separate amp while turning the HU's internal amp off. Less heat in the dash, and higher fidelity...assuming you're running a quality amp.
.02
 
#22 ·
Any apparent changes to the 2015's, or is this the same mod setup? I'll have a '15 V6 SV KC in time.

GREAT THREAD!
 
#31 · (Edited)
2014 KC - unless I am color blind and the PINK/WHITE Combo is actually Orange/Grey

Ok, rears are finally done, which makes a full set. Sounds much better than stock with all four matching speakers installed, especially with some volume so time to start seriously planning the next step in the upgrade process. This is good enough to last until I make that decision though, so job done.

Back to the business at hand - pink/white wiring. While my rear driver side green wire is the positive, as posted earlier in this thread, my pink wire on the passenger side is the positive, not the white, which is opposite of the earlier post (I found the same issue on the front speakers with wire polarity I found elsewhere on the 'tubes). I did the "battery test" on both rear speakers to make absolutely sure of which was what. In short when you connect the pos end of a battery to the pos terminal/wire of a speaker the cone will move away from the magnet; if you connect the neg end of the battery to the pos terminal the cone will move toward the magnet. You can see the positive result of the pink/white wire test here (I didn't film the green/black test, but green is definitely positive):

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xlm97yg63y54ez8/20150103_160449.mp4?dl=0

EDIT: Of course, this test assumes that the wiring in the truck harness conforms to the correct polarity on the speaker poles. There is always the chance it's incorrect, but I'm not accounting for that possibility, and I wired both rear speakers according to the battery test results so at least I know they're in correct phase. </disclaimer>

Also I ended up using some plastic adapters that worked like a charm in fitting the rear speakers since the adapter rings that came with my speakers didn't quite fit and I didn't want to drill new holes. These are the adapters:

Amazon.com: Nissan / Infiniti 6.5 Inch Black Plastic Speaker Adapter Bracket Ring: Car Electronics

And here's how they all come together - the adapters make for a very clean and simple install.

And finally a big shout out to glamisdude for ensuring I'll be eating Ramen for the next few weeks... >:D
Thanks for the information. I followed the wire using the Factory Service Manual... and I could have made a mistake in my wiring... Doesn't sound out of phase but I will go back now and give it a listen. Not a difficult fix if I i did indeed make an error.

...I gave it a listen, and sounded in phase to me... Opened up the rear door and I indeed have made a mistake. Pink is positive I had it wired correctly but posted the wrong information. I edited that post. THanks for calling me on my mistake!
 
#26 ·
I haven't gotten the passenger side yet (will tomorrow) but my 2014 KC (BT/no navigation) rear driver side speaker wiring is pretty close to what he described - the green wire (pos) has silver stripes and the black wire (neg) also has silver stripes.

I'll post about the passenger side when I've had a chance to get in there this weekend...
 

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#34 ·
Once again, great thread. :cool:


Hoping there might be a 2015 HU install thread coming soon in case there are any differences/additions that need addressing.
 
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