How To: Front + Rear Differential && Transfercase Fluid Change on 05+ Gen 2 Frontier - Page 4 - Nissan Frontier Forum
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post #31 of 133 (permalink) Old 10-29-2008, 09:07 PM
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post #32 of 133 (permalink) Old 10-29-2008, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks EB05!! Just trying to help the many while doing my routine deal. So.. any Texas want to lend me a hand in throwing a 1966 mustang together? All new parts... She's clean too! Maybe the woman will let ya drive it

I'll also have a look see at the front drive shaft tomorrow and give a verdict on it. We're having a mad Halloween party so we will be decorating/prepping for that and Im not sure how much time I'll have after cleaning and buying stuff.. But I'll let you guys know. Shoot I dont even think the U-Joints on the front D-shaft are even grease-able. We'll see. Thanks again yall!!

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post #33 of 133 (permalink) Old 11-19-2008, 12:13 PM
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did you use amsoil in the front and rear diffs? cause i see castrol synthetic and lucas oil....which did you use?

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post #34 of 133 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 10:06 PM
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Good write up. I happy to see that there are other options beside Nissan stock fluid for our trannies.

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05 Storm Gray CC Frontier
35s 2.5 AC suspension 3 Body Lift
Now sitting on its 4th front diff.
And its 2nd rear diff--changed to a M226
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post #35 of 133 (permalink) Old 11-24-2008, 02:37 PM
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Great write up, I just did the front and rear diffs, t-case, manual transmission and engine this past weekend after 44k km. This was the first time doing everything except the engine and I had to use a 18" flex bar to break the fill and drain plugs. Using my lower drive lube pump was a tedious process for those hard to reach filler holes (basically everything except the rear diff) so I got a squeeze bottle at the dollar store. It was a bit messy filling it up but only cost a buck. It's probably worthwhile investing in a transfer pump for $20 since getting the new stuff in took the most time. All the oils looked like they were due to change except the transmission fluid, that stuff came out looking brand new. I refilled with the Nissan 75w85 MTF and it felt the same afterwards - I'm wondering if my Canadian spec build came with it from the factory. Also, I got exactly two quarts of oil into the rear diff - a bit shy of what the FSM specs but I double checked again last night on a level surface and it was as full as it would go. All the other components were pretty much dead on balls accurate with what the FSM called for. What did other folks get into their rear diff? I'm wondering if I didn't get all the old stuff out with it being so cold and that gear oil being pretty thick.
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post #36 of 133 (permalink) Old 11-24-2008, 02:52 PM
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I was only able to put 1 quart of royal purple in my rear diff then fluid started coming out. But it wasd the old fluid so I just keep puting fluid till it was new fluid thay was coming out. Is that normal?

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post #37 of 133 (permalink) Old 11-24-2008, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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I was only able to put 1 quart of royal purple in my rear diff then fluid started coming out. But it wasd the old fluid so I just keep puting fluid till it was new fluid thay was coming out. Is that normal?
From what I can tell you are a Nismo. So you've got the M226 rear end. I put the M226 fill capacities in the guide but I dont remember the capacity. I want to say it was more than one quart tho! It just seems like all the old fluid didnt drain out. As long as it overflowed out of the fill hole, it should be full.

2006 Radiant Silver SE CC 5AT 4x4 @ 4540 Lbs. 158,000mi
Performance: UpRev Dyno Tuned (5 ECU Maps), WRP PSP - IMS - LWUD Crank Pulley, OBX Headers, Shiner Fab'd 2.25" Stainless High-flow Catalytic Converters, NRG Engine Torque Damper, Airaid CAI, Throttle Body Intercooler, Nismo 54*C Thermostat.
Suspension: OME608, Bilstein 5100, Calmini Shackles & Brake Lines, Deaver AAL, Titan Poly Sway-bar Bushings and Yokohama Geolander ATS 285/75r16D
Exterior: Shiner Fab'd Front and Rear DOM Bumpers, DIY 1.5" BL
14.506 @ 93.10 mph. 133,xxx mi. 245WHP 261WTQ & Paid Off

http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...ad.php?t=48787
2005 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8t - TT225 fuel injectors - Motoza Tuned.
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post #38 of 133 (permalink) Old 11-24-2008, 05:02 PM
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Sorry I should have qualified my question in that I have the M226 rear end. Specs call for 2.01L or 4.25 pints. I got 1.850 L in I estimate.

No matter what rear end you have, you should certainly be able to get more than one quart in.
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post #39 of 133 (permalink) Old 11-24-2008, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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that sounds about right kyle. you wont be able to get the complete and full amount in since its not a dry fill. Id say the both of yall are good. but do check them again as with all fluids to make sure.

2006 Radiant Silver SE CC 5AT 4x4 @ 4540 Lbs. 158,000mi
Performance: UpRev Dyno Tuned (5 ECU Maps), WRP PSP - IMS - LWUD Crank Pulley, OBX Headers, Shiner Fab'd 2.25" Stainless High-flow Catalytic Converters, NRG Engine Torque Damper, Airaid CAI, Throttle Body Intercooler, Nismo 54*C Thermostat.
Suspension: OME608, Bilstein 5100, Calmini Shackles & Brake Lines, Deaver AAL, Titan Poly Sway-bar Bushings and Yokohama Geolander ATS 285/75r16D
Exterior: Shiner Fab'd Front and Rear DOM Bumpers, DIY 1.5" BL
14.506 @ 93.10 mph. 133,xxx mi. 245WHP 261WTQ & Paid Off

http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...ad.php?t=48787
2005 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8t - TT225 fuel injectors - Motoza Tuned.
Feel free to ask me questions!
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post #40 of 133 (permalink) Old 11-24-2008, 09:12 PM
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good job pal, but noticed you were missing a nut on your cat flange, and where those your fingernails? or your gfS?

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