How To: Change Your Oil-05+ VQ40DE - Page 4 - Nissan Frontier Forum
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#31 (permalink) Old 10-19-2008, 11:59 AM
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umm I have a ?

well I just got a used frontier about 3 weeks ago and I changed the oil using this write up ( thanks ). Anyways the guy i bought the truck from said he was using castrol syntec blend. I changed it over to castrol syntec full synthetic. Anyways to my question. When I start my truck the oil gauge goes right to the middle of the gauge. once I start driving it stays right in the middle but once i come to a stop light the oil pressure drops back down to low. once I start going again the pressure goes back up to the middle of the gauge again. is this normal?

I have checked the oil dipstick three times to make sure there was enough oil in there and it shows that it is right at the top dot. any ideas?
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#32 (permalink) Old 10-19-2008, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Rampy View Post
well I just got a used frontier about 3 weeks ago and I changed the oil using this write up ( thanks ). Anyways the guy i bought the truck from said he was using castrol syntec blend. I changed it over to castrol syntec full synthetic. Anyways to my question. When I start my truck the oil gauge goes right to the middle of the gauge. once I start driving it stays right in the middle but once i come to a stop light the oil pressure drops back down to low. once I start going again the pressure goes back up to the middle of the gauge again. is this normal?

I have checked the oil dipstick three times to make sure there was enough oil in there and it shows that it is right at the top dot. any ideas?
If it's a 2005 this is normal. The gauge will fluctuate near low when idling and move up when accelerating. They changed them in late 05 or 06 to a dummy gauge (will only move if there is an issue).
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#33 (permalink) Old 10-20-2008, 11:05 AM
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If it's a 2005 this is normal. The gauge will fluctuate near low when idling and move up when accelerating. They changed them in late 05 or 06 to a dummy gauge (will only move if there is an issue).

thanks for clearing this up for me.
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#34 (permalink) Old 10-27-2008, 02:25 PM
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Nice write up Harsh

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#35 (permalink) Old 11-18-2008, 02:32 PM
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Good write up, and I think I'll just take off the skid plate, until its dented and then I'll use the access panal.

I bought a Frontier right off the lot. The guy who sold it to me told me to use Nissan filters only. I am somewhat vehicle savy, and have always done my own repairs on cars, so I figured he was just saying that.

But, he did mention the reason to use Nissan Filters is because they have part of the filter that holds a tad of oil, and when you start your truck, it shoots it over the engine, which lubricates it right away. He said it has a pressure release valve in it or something of those words.

Can I just buy a fram and its the same deal, or should I spend the money and get a Nissan one. Can't imagine the $ is really any different.

Also, 3750 you recommend I change it for the 1st time? Typically I've done it every 4k or 5k. (depending on my car). I'm going to use the recommend oil. 5-30. Do you use regular oil or synthetic?

Finally, would you assume I could get the washers anywhere I get the filter, or should I grab like 10 or so from the dealer?


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Last edited by Glacier08; 11-19-2008 at 12:06 PM.
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#36 (permalink) Old 11-19-2008, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Glacier08 View Post
But, he did mention the reason to use Nissan Filters is because they have part of the filter that holds a tad of oil, and when you start your truck, it shoots it over the engine, which lubricates it right away. He said it has a pressure release valve in it or something of those words.

Can I just buy a fram and its the same deal, or should I spend the money and get a Nissan one. Can't imagine the $ is really any different.

Also, 3750 you recommend I change it for the 1st time? Typically I've done it every 4k or 5k. (depending on my car). I'm going to use the recommend oil. 5-30. Do you use regular oil or synthetic?

Finally, would you assume I could get the washers anywhere I get the filter, or should I grab like 10 or so from the dealer?
He's talking about an anti-drainback valve in the oil filter, which keeps a little oil from draining into the pan. Any good quality filter like Wix, Purolator, Mobil1, K&N, Napa, etc. will have this feature. Although there's probably nothing too seriously wrong with them, I would not use a Fram. Oil Filters Revealed

I always change oil early for the first time so that any break-in particles or assembly byproducts don't swirl around in there too long. After that, any modern 5W-30 SM rated oil will perform well for 5K miles. Synth or regular dino oil is up to you and your operating conditions.


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#37 (permalink) Old 11-19-2008, 09:39 PM
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Order your OEM filters online and you can get a 10 pack for around 65 shipped. Also get a set of crush-washers while you are at it and maybe an extra drain plug or two.

Also, keep your first change under 2k to make sure the break-in particles don't clog the filter.
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#38 (permalink) Old 12-18-2008, 09:32 PM
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One other tip, courtesy of my stupidity: make sure that after you change your oil (after, of course, changing your wife's vehicle's oil) you MOVE THE 5gal BUCKET WITH @10.5 QTS OF OIL BEFORE YOU BACK THE FRONTY OFF THE RAMPS!!!!! Otherwise, your wife may take to calling you Captain Hazelwood after observing your oil spill.

That cleanup was NOT fun!

(no animals or wildlife were harmed in that incident, just my pride)

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#39 (permalink) Old 12-19-2008, 02:33 AM
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ramps? put a lift on the truck - no ramps needed....


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#40 (permalink) Old 12-29-2008, 09:09 PM
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Could someone with a factory service manual pls post torque specs for engine drain plug, transmission drain plug and pan bolts, and differential drain and fill plugs? I have an '06 two wheel drive. Appreciate it.

Last edited by Talkinghorse; 12-29-2008 at 09:13 PM.
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