Ok guys here is the deal just write ups here, if you have a question please PM the poster. Keep the mods under $100 and under a few hrs.
Pathfinder Window switch cover mod (05+)
Well I went right outside and put them on, took me about 15 minutes since I was being extra EXTRA careful not to scratch anything. I figured I would write up some notes and show some photos for all here who might be planning on doing this at some time.
Tools
* a flat head screw driver
* a philips head screwdriver (this is for the drivers side only as the switches are screwed to the cover plate)
* and a sharp knife (i would suggest this but its not needed)
I used the sharp knife to start popping the parts out. The blade fit perfectly and allowed me to open the gap large enough to get the flat head in there and pop the tabs holding it in.
NOTE: at the back of ever part (towards the backend of the truck) there is a big tab that you will need to push hard to get it to move in far enough to remove and put back in the cover. You will see when you look at the new covers.
The buttons all clip in (except the drivers side ones) to the covers and its was very easy to remove them from the covers. Below are the photos I took of me doing the drivers side. I edited the photos to cut the size down
Throttle Body Bypass Mod (05+)
Ok I saw this back on CT a few months back and there have been some threads here on it. But the trottle body bypass basicly takes out the hot water running though the trottle body. Its a cheep and simple mod with the L fitting and 2 caps it was less then $10.
Parts and tools needed:
Good pair of small pliers
Flat head screwdriver
2x 3/8 in bypass caps (the ones I got came 2 in a box)
3/8 in L or sright fitting
A shop rag.
Optional:
2 small hose clamps.
Gressless lubercant.
Ok make sure the motor is cool (I did it first thing in the morning)
1. put the towel under the trottle body to catch any coolent that might leak out.
2. undo the 2 spring clamps that hold the coolent lines to the trottle body.
3. Pull the coolent lines off the torttle body (I used a flat head screw drive to move them a little and break the seal)
4. Install the L fitting by sliding the hosed over (a ittle bit of gressless lube helped get the hoses to slid on.
5. Move the spring clamps so they are hold the hoses to the L fitting.
6. Slip on the 2 bypass caps.
7. Turn on and check for leaks.
Total install time was about 15 mins because I needed to go back inside a for the screw drive (so should take you about 10mins to do)
Gains:
I know there was some debate on this here about the gains you'll get out of this mod. Yesterday the truck had air intake tempature of about 86-90 degress in 70 degree out side air temp, today the truck was about 71 degress with 66 outside air temp. Both were done at 40 MPH. Also something I was not expecting the water temp dropped form 195 degress to about 188-190. No real butt dyno incresses though.
Note: Intake air temp taking with Scangauge 2 over a 2 mile sreach of road. Truck has Volant CAI and Magnaflow exhaust.
The Pics
You can see the 2 coolent lines in the trottle body
Now with the caps and the L fitting
Air box mods
First Gen
There are two resonators you can remove. The first one and most important one is in the driver side fender. Its a pain to get the two bolts that hold it in out. The first bolt is behind the intake box and the other is under the ABS System. You will have to remove the plastic cover in the the wheel well to get the resonator out. The second resonator is behind the air intake box and is a 2" tube that just goes to a box. It can be removed and you can plug that hole.
Posted by Steve0616
2nd Gen
Here is an almost free way to get better performance from your 05/06
Frontier,Pathfinder,Xterra. While they have a big airbox,the tube to the
airbox from front fender it breathes through is quite small and i am certain
restrict the performance and fuel economy of the truck. i KNOW this is not as effective
as a true CAI but with a better breathing filter(K&N, airhog, aFe etc) it does make a difference
Tools required
10 mm socket,
6 inch extension
Ratchet
10mm combo wrench
Blade screwdriver
Dremel tool with cutting bit
Small file
1) Open hood.
2) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
3) Use the blade screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp closest
to the airbox.
4) Open airbox, remove filter, and move airbox cover(lid) out of
the work area.
5) Using the 10 mm socket completely remove the bolt at the top back
of the airbox, loosen the one inside the box near the middle only.
6) With the 10mm combo wrench,loosen only the hex bolt at the bottom
front of the airbox.
7) Once the bolt at the back has been removed and the other two
loosened pull the airbox up and out of the vehicle.
8] Clean your airbox if dirty before you begin the modification.
9) Using the Dremel tool, cut the bottom front of the box out as
pictured. It is easy to do, use the "ribs" inside the
box to help guide the tool as it cuts. Remember to not remove
the larger "ribs" as they support the integrity of the airbox.
10) Different areas may be cut, I feel however the best place to
remove the plastic is at the front behind the headlight.
More cool air will be available for the engine to breathe in front
than at the back or side of the box.
11) Once the holes are cut as desired, clean up the edges of the areas
where the plastic was removed with the file. Make sure you get all
the plastic bits and filings out of the airbox before you reassemble it.
12) Reassemble the airbox in reverse order. Install your air filter
(or drop in that K & N you wanted).Put the airbox cover back on.
Retighten the hoseclamp on the intake tube hook up the battery
and the project is complete.
The entire job took about 1/2 hour, provides a small power
boost at low RPMs and a throaty sound at W.O.T. I have performed
this modification to my last 4 vehilces with success each time.This
mod can be done on almost any vehicle easily and inexpensively.
Psted by RDNF
Fog lights 2nd gen
Great quality. I am going to do a step by step install write up. Hopefully 2nite will have phase one complete. I will also post day and night pics of the two different setups
Step 1: Take OEM covers for fog light holes, rotate left clockwise and right counterclockwise.
Step 2: Remove foglights from mounting brackets
Step 3: Install mounting brackets to hanger on bumper located on the top of the hole.
Step 4: Put Bumper trims ( I bought mine from Courtesy Parts $14 with S/H)). This step is a bit tricky the right install is completeley different from the left. I was able to rotate the right one into place. The left one I had to get two of the small tabs in place and click the big tab (has a push tab on it) after struggling for a bit.
Step 5: Put fog lights back together tighten as much as possible
Wire placement:
- The installation I wanted was so that the fog lights/driving lights came on with the parking lights... NO SWITCH
- for those of you wondering they stay ON even with the high beams
Step 1: Place wires so that the fuse and relay provided will be in the same side as the battery
Step 2: feed wires for left fog light inside the chanel built behind the bumber
Step 3: Connect lamps to wiring harness
Step 4: Pull white wire from connector by pushing it with a small screw driver or pocket knife
Step 5: put switch provided, extra wires and connector (red and black back in the box)
Wiring:
Step 1: Unhook Battery terminals
Step 2: Remove battery
Step 3: Remove cover from positive terminal by sliding it up and pulling on the sides a bit
Step 4: Remove nut on left side of positive terminal at the top of it
Step 5: Install positive lead of fog light wiring harness ( Thicker white wire) **Hint** make sure you install the wire coming in front of the existing lead. The pictures show it on the back, we had to go back and change it because we could not get the cover back on properly
Step 6: Replace nut removed and thighten at the top of the positive lead
Step 7: Feed wire into wire wrap from OEM lead
Step 8: Drill a guide hole for the supplied screws between both of the ground wires on the front fender guard
Step 9:Install the relay from the wiring harness with the supplied screw into the previously tapped hole
Step 10: Get both of the ground wires from the wiring harness together and place under the front ground.
Step 11: Use a piece from the double sided adhesive provided to attach fuse holder to the fender guard
Step 12: Remove right parking light
Step 13: Remove electrical tape that holds both parking and signal lights
Step 14: Feed small white wire that was removed from connector through the top of wire cover for parking light
Step 15: Use electrical tap provided to tap into white wire of the parking light at the base of the wire protector with small white wire previously fed ** You will have to cut a lot of the small white wire **
Step 16: Replace and reconnect parking light after replacing electrical tape that holds the wires separated before
Step 17: Replace battery and reconnect terminals
Step 18: Test
Step 19: Adjust lights
Posted by Crcampos
Pathfinder Window switch cover mod (05+)
Well I went right outside and put them on, took me about 15 minutes since I was being extra EXTRA careful not to scratch anything. I figured I would write up some notes and show some photos for all here who might be planning on doing this at some time.
Tools
* a flat head screw driver
* a philips head screwdriver (this is for the drivers side only as the switches are screwed to the cover plate)
* and a sharp knife (i would suggest this but its not needed)
I used the sharp knife to start popping the parts out. The blade fit perfectly and allowed me to open the gap large enough to get the flat head in there and pop the tabs holding it in.
NOTE: at the back of ever part (towards the backend of the truck) there is a big tab that you will need to push hard to get it to move in far enough to remove and put back in the cover. You will see when you look at the new covers.
The buttons all clip in (except the drivers side ones) to the covers and its was very easy to remove them from the covers. Below are the photos I took of me doing the drivers side. I edited the photos to cut the size down
Throttle Body Bypass Mod (05+)
Ok I saw this back on CT a few months back and there have been some threads here on it. But the trottle body bypass basicly takes out the hot water running though the trottle body. Its a cheep and simple mod with the L fitting and 2 caps it was less then $10.
Parts and tools needed:
Good pair of small pliers
Flat head screwdriver
2x 3/8 in bypass caps (the ones I got came 2 in a box)
3/8 in L or sright fitting
A shop rag.
Optional:
2 small hose clamps.
Gressless lubercant.
Ok make sure the motor is cool (I did it first thing in the morning)
1. put the towel under the trottle body to catch any coolent that might leak out.
2. undo the 2 spring clamps that hold the coolent lines to the trottle body.
3. Pull the coolent lines off the torttle body (I used a flat head screw drive to move them a little and break the seal)
4. Install the L fitting by sliding the hosed over (a ittle bit of gressless lube helped get the hoses to slid on.
5. Move the spring clamps so they are hold the hoses to the L fitting.
6. Slip on the 2 bypass caps.
7. Turn on and check for leaks.
Total install time was about 15 mins because I needed to go back inside a for the screw drive (so should take you about 10mins to do)
Gains:
I know there was some debate on this here about the gains you'll get out of this mod. Yesterday the truck had air intake tempature of about 86-90 degress in 70 degree out side air temp, today the truck was about 71 degress with 66 outside air temp. Both were done at 40 MPH. Also something I was not expecting the water temp dropped form 195 degress to about 188-190. No real butt dyno incresses though.
Note: Intake air temp taking with Scangauge 2 over a 2 mile sreach of road. Truck has Volant CAI and Magnaflow exhaust.
The Pics
You can see the 2 coolent lines in the trottle body
Now with the caps and the L fitting
Air box mods
First Gen
There are two resonators you can remove. The first one and most important one is in the driver side fender. Its a pain to get the two bolts that hold it in out. The first bolt is behind the intake box and the other is under the ABS System. You will have to remove the plastic cover in the the wheel well to get the resonator out. The second resonator is behind the air intake box and is a 2" tube that just goes to a box. It can be removed and you can plug that hole.
Posted by Steve0616
2nd Gen
Here is an almost free way to get better performance from your 05/06
Frontier,Pathfinder,Xterra. While they have a big airbox,the tube to the
airbox from front fender it breathes through is quite small and i am certain
restrict the performance and fuel economy of the truck. i KNOW this is not as effective
as a true CAI but with a better breathing filter(K&N, airhog, aFe etc) it does make a difference
Tools required
10 mm socket,
6 inch extension
Ratchet
10mm combo wrench
Blade screwdriver
Dremel tool with cutting bit
Small file
1) Open hood.
2) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
3) Use the blade screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp closest
to the airbox.
4) Open airbox, remove filter, and move airbox cover(lid) out of
the work area.
5) Using the 10 mm socket completely remove the bolt at the top back
of the airbox, loosen the one inside the box near the middle only.
6) With the 10mm combo wrench,loosen only the hex bolt at the bottom
front of the airbox.
7) Once the bolt at the back has been removed and the other two
loosened pull the airbox up and out of the vehicle.
8] Clean your airbox if dirty before you begin the modification.
9) Using the Dremel tool, cut the bottom front of the box out as
pictured. It is easy to do, use the "ribs" inside the
box to help guide the tool as it cuts. Remember to not remove
the larger "ribs" as they support the integrity of the airbox.
10) Different areas may be cut, I feel however the best place to
remove the plastic is at the front behind the headlight.
More cool air will be available for the engine to breathe in front
than at the back or side of the box.
11) Once the holes are cut as desired, clean up the edges of the areas
where the plastic was removed with the file. Make sure you get all
the plastic bits and filings out of the airbox before you reassemble it.
12) Reassemble the airbox in reverse order. Install your air filter
(or drop in that K & N you wanted).Put the airbox cover back on.
Retighten the hoseclamp on the intake tube hook up the battery
and the project is complete.
The entire job took about 1/2 hour, provides a small power
boost at low RPMs and a throaty sound at W.O.T. I have performed
this modification to my last 4 vehilces with success each time.This
mod can be done on almost any vehicle easily and inexpensively.
Psted by RDNF
Fog lights 2nd gen
Great quality. I am going to do a step by step install write up. Hopefully 2nite will have phase one complete. I will also post day and night pics of the two different setups
Step 1: Take OEM covers for fog light holes, rotate left clockwise and right counterclockwise.
Step 2: Remove foglights from mounting brackets
Step 3: Install mounting brackets to hanger on bumper located on the top of the hole.
Step 4: Put Bumper trims ( I bought mine from Courtesy Parts $14 with S/H)). This step is a bit tricky the right install is completeley different from the left. I was able to rotate the right one into place. The left one I had to get two of the small tabs in place and click the big tab (has a push tab on it) after struggling for a bit.
Step 5: Put fog lights back together tighten as much as possible
Wire placement:
- The installation I wanted was so that the fog lights/driving lights came on with the parking lights... NO SWITCH
- for those of you wondering they stay ON even with the high beams
Step 1: Place wires so that the fuse and relay provided will be in the same side as the battery
Step 2: feed wires for left fog light inside the chanel built behind the bumber
Step 3: Connect lamps to wiring harness
Step 4: Pull white wire from connector by pushing it with a small screw driver or pocket knife
Step 5: put switch provided, extra wires and connector (red and black back in the box)
Wiring:
Step 1: Unhook Battery terminals
Step 2: Remove battery
Step 3: Remove cover from positive terminal by sliding it up and pulling on the sides a bit
Step 4: Remove nut on left side of positive terminal at the top of it
Step 5: Install positive lead of fog light wiring harness ( Thicker white wire) **Hint** make sure you install the wire coming in front of the existing lead. The pictures show it on the back, we had to go back and change it because we could not get the cover back on properly
Step 6: Replace nut removed and thighten at the top of the positive lead
Step 7: Feed wire into wire wrap from OEM lead
Step 8: Drill a guide hole for the supplied screws between both of the ground wires on the front fender guard
Step 9:Install the relay from the wiring harness with the supplied screw into the previously tapped hole
Step 10: Get both of the ground wires from the wiring harness together and place under the front ground.
Step 11: Use a piece from the double sided adhesive provided to attach fuse holder to the fender guard
Step 12: Remove right parking light
Step 13: Remove electrical tape that holds both parking and signal lights
Step 14: Feed small white wire that was removed from connector through the top of wire cover for parking light
Step 15: Use electrical tap provided to tap into white wire of the parking light at the base of the wire protector with small white wire previously fed ** You will have to cut a lot of the small white wire **
Step 16: Replace and reconnect parking light after replacing electrical tape that holds the wires separated before
Step 17: Replace battery and reconnect terminals
Step 18: Test
Step 19: Adjust lights
Posted by Crcampos