This is really easy! You can do it with a few tools.
AS THE TITLE STATES, THIS IS FOR THE REAR ONLY
Tools: 1/2" torque wrench, 3/8" torque wrench (optional), deep Metric socket set (both 3/8" and 1/2" drives), regular household framing hammer, 1/2" ratchet, 3/8" ratchet, Lisle 22800 wheel stud install tool (optional), 4-5 flat washers
****PURCHASE YOUR NEW STUD\S IN ADVANCE, PUT STUD\S IN THE FREEZER FOR AT LEAST 12 HOURS****
(This will make the stud shrink, making step 9 easier)
Safety first, don't be a dumb a**! I can not be held responsible if you or your truck get damaged!
1) chock front wheels, lift truck by rear differential, place 2 jack stands under axle, lower onto jack stands
2) remove one or both rear wheels
3) remove the brake caliper from caliper bracket (2 smaller bolts) and tie it up to the leaf spring to keep it out of the way
4) remove the caliper bracket (2 larger bolts)
5) slide rotor off studs
6) use normal household framing hammer to knock out the broken stud. It takes about 2-3 good swings and it will pop out the back side. You do NOT need to press the broken studs out as they take minimal effort to tap out. Also, you will NOT damage your wheel bearings using a hammer, you are not putting that much pressure on the bearings with each swing.
7) go grab your frozen stud\s out of the freezer
8) install one frozen stud from the back side, align the new stud with the grooves cut by the old broken stud
9) use a Lisle 22800 wheel stud tool and a NEW lug nut (best option as this tool keeps the studs perfectly straight) or grab 4-5 flat washers and a NEW lug nut; now tighten the NEW lug nut until the head of the new stud is pulled flush with the backing plate of the axle. See picture of the tool
10) repeat steps 8 and 9 for multiple stud replacement
11) slide rotor back onto the studs
12) install caliper bracket and torque both bolts to 76 ft lbs
13) install caliper to caliper bracket and torque both bolts to 24 ft lbs
14) install wheels and torque lug nuts to 108 ft lbs
15) lower truck, and now your done!
Enjoy,
CPS
AS THE TITLE STATES, THIS IS FOR THE REAR ONLY
Tools: 1/2" torque wrench, 3/8" torque wrench (optional), deep Metric socket set (both 3/8" and 1/2" drives), regular household framing hammer, 1/2" ratchet, 3/8" ratchet, Lisle 22800 wheel stud install tool (optional), 4-5 flat washers
****PURCHASE YOUR NEW STUD\S IN ADVANCE, PUT STUD\S IN THE FREEZER FOR AT LEAST 12 HOURS****
(This will make the stud shrink, making step 9 easier)
Safety first, don't be a dumb a**! I can not be held responsible if you or your truck get damaged!
1) chock front wheels, lift truck by rear differential, place 2 jack stands under axle, lower onto jack stands
2) remove one or both rear wheels
3) remove the brake caliper from caliper bracket (2 smaller bolts) and tie it up to the leaf spring to keep it out of the way
4) remove the caliper bracket (2 larger bolts)
5) slide rotor off studs
6) use normal household framing hammer to knock out the broken stud. It takes about 2-3 good swings and it will pop out the back side. You do NOT need to press the broken studs out as they take minimal effort to tap out. Also, you will NOT damage your wheel bearings using a hammer, you are not putting that much pressure on the bearings with each swing.
7) go grab your frozen stud\s out of the freezer
8) install one frozen stud from the back side, align the new stud with the grooves cut by the old broken stud
9) use a Lisle 22800 wheel stud tool and a NEW lug nut (best option as this tool keeps the studs perfectly straight) or grab 4-5 flat washers and a NEW lug nut; now tighten the NEW lug nut until the head of the new stud is pulled flush with the backing plate of the axle. See picture of the tool
10) repeat steps 8 and 9 for multiple stud replacement
11) slide rotor back onto the studs
12) install caliper bracket and torque both bolts to 76 ft lbs
13) install caliper to caliper bracket and torque both bolts to 24 ft lbs
14) install wheels and torque lug nuts to 108 ft lbs
15) lower truck, and now your done!
Enjoy,
CPS