diy clutch replacement on 06 frontier 4x4 - Nissan Frontier Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-23-2011, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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diy clutch replacement on 06 frontier 4x4

Here’s my diy on how to replace clutch. Through all my trial and error I found out this is the easiest way to get the tranny out and in. It wasn’t fun and a real pain at times. If anyone has anything to add i will edit it in.. I Don't have any pics right now but mabye i can put some together.

Disclaimer – This information is for reference only, I am not a mechanic and not responsible for anything if you decide to try it. Do at your own risk.




1. Place the truck on jack stands. 20” and above of clearance from the bottom of step rails works best.

2. Disconnect Battery

3. Remove both front tires

4. Remove the tire wells on both sides. They are held on by plastic push pins, and one screw that also holds the mud flap.

5. Remove The Heat shield on both headers. There are 3 bolts that hold it on the manifold. Mine were so corroded that I had to use my air hammer to remove. I then threw it in the trash.

6. Remove the 3 nuts holding the cat to the headers. The top nut you can get to underneath the car, but the other two are facing towards the front of the car. A couple of long extensions with swivels and you should be able to get them off. You might have to heat them with a torch and spray them down with PB break. Also some other guys here were able to just unbolt the headers and take it out in one piece. I wasn’t going to chance it since the corrosion was so bad.

7. unplug all 4- 02 censors , and remove the brackets. The lower brackets are on the transmission and the upper two are located on the engine block.

8. Remove the bolts connecting the wye pie to the resonator. Unbolt the two exhaust brackets located right after the wye pipe. There are some grounding straps on the exhaust , you can take them off great if not just cut them. Pull the exhaust out of the truck and the cat/resonators in one piece.

9. Remove the crank angle sensor located on the passenger side.

10. Remove the starter cover plate, and then the starter. There are two bolts that hold the starter. one facing the front the other facing the rear.

11. Drain the oil in the transfer case and transmission

12. Remove the clutch solenoid.

13. Mark the front and rear drive shafts position with the axles and remove.

14. Unscrew the gear knob, remove the cup holder and the bolts holding down front cover. Once that’s out of the way, remove the boot cover plate and the 3 screws holding down shifter plate. The shifter comes right out and also remove the big spring. Place a rag in the hole so no dirt gets in.

15. Place a jack under the transfer case and start removing the cross beam. and remove the 3 bolts holding the transmission to the cross beam and remove. You might need to use a crow bar to get it out , mine was a real pain.

16. Setup your transmission jack under ( I used a motorcycle jack, it worked but a pain) and secure. Once that done you can remove the jack holding the transfer case.

17. Slowly lower the transmission, disconnect all plugs, hoses and remove the wiring harness off the transmission & move them to the side.

18. Lower the transmission some more until your able to see the top 4 bolts from behind transmission. Get some long 1/2in extensions,swivels and a breaker bar.

19. Remove the rest of the bell housing bolts and the small plate located in front of the bell housing .

20. Pull and wiggle it side to side. while changing the angle on the tranny jack. You might have to use a crowbar one it gets cracked open.

21. One the tranny is out, remove the small bolts holding the clutch pressure plate off .

22. Now if your going to change the flywheel its. held on by T55 bolts, if not you can still change the pilot pushing really easy. Grab some paper and water, find a bolt that fits inside the bushing some what snug. Fill the hole with wet paper and bang it down with the bolt and a dead blow hammer. Keep on repeating this step and eventually the bushing will start to come out due to the hydraulic force. Grab a needle nose pliers and pull all the paper out. Put a light coating of motor oil in the hole and slowly tap the new bushing in with a mallet.

23. Grab your new clutch and center tool. Install the clutch & centering tool in the direction marked on the clutch. Place the new pressure plate on the fly wheel and follow a random tightening pattern. The service manual that you can get free online will have an illustration on tightening pattern.

24. Remove the arm and throw-out bearing assembly. Bring the assembly to a machine shop to have new bearing pressed in.

25. Grease the throw out bearing arm pivot points and the shaft as show in the online manual.

26. Now the fun part installation! grab two of your friends, have one help pivot and wiggle the transmission into place, while the other pivots the motor. You might have to put a socket on the front balancer pully to rotate the engine so the splines can lineup.

27. Once you get it in and the guide pins are all lineup begin tightening the bell house bolts , to seat the transmission to the motor.

28. Just repeat the rest of the sets backwards and you should be golden.. Also before you install the gear shifter , fill your transmission that way. It’s much easier will less mess.

2006 nissan frontier 4x4 SE, tow package, line-x bed spray, ac lift coils rancho front struts, factory fog lights, retrax bed cover, fisher homesteader 7'4" plow, Infinity reference 6 1/2 & 6x9
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-23-2011, 10:27 PM
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hanks for the writeup guy. I will be doing my clutch soon to and it helps to have true hands on writeups like this to go along with the "official" manual.

2008 Frontier SE KC 4X2 6 Speed
Performance Mods-Uprev Dyno Tuned, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, 350Z Upper & Lower Plenums, Custom Mid-intake, Motordyne 5/16" Spacer, Truetrac LSD, 4.11 Gears, OBX Headers, True Duals w/Magnaflow Mufflers, & X-Pipe, Custom Magnaflow Testpipes, Volant CAI, Nismo Thermostat, WRP CP, Mishimoto Catch Can, JWT Lightweight Flywheel & Clutch
Other Mods-Nismo 18" x 8.5" wheels, Dunlop Sport 265/60/18 tires, Morimoto Mini H1 5K HID Projectors
276 WHP & 288 FTLB--14.15 @ 95.88mph
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-14-2011, 01:19 AM
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Thanks, my clutch just took a crap and I'll be using this to replace mine. Did you also have to replace the flywheel, it's a very expensive item, and I'm hoping mine is fine.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-24-2011, 02:11 AM Thread Starter
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I ended up replacing mine since it was all part allready. got it offline for 450 bucks. still have the factoryone with 38k on it siting in my garage

2006 nissan frontier 4x4 SE, tow package, line-x bed spray, ac lift coils rancho front struts, factory fog lights, retrax bed cover, fisher homesteader 7'4" plow, Infinity reference 6 1/2 & 6x9
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-24-2011, 03:00 AM
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Just for everyone who's thinking about going with a non-OEM clutch/flywheel when/if theirs original set goes out:

I struggled a lot to decide what to do, it was my first major repair on the truck. It happened only a few months after I bought it. I eventually just went for the JWT clutch/flywheel, and I don't regret it. It actually ended up being cheaper than the OEM parts, and feels great. It was a little aggressive at first, but then I got used to it and I'd never do it differently. Especially with my 33" tires it feels really nice.

Bottom-line... screw the stock clutch/flywheel set. The dual-mass flywheel usually can't be machined, so you have to replace it anyways. I got the single-mass James Wolf Tech flywheel and although people say you can hear a lot of drive line chatter, I haven't experienced that. The actual clutch from JWT is far superior as well.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-24-2011, 12:10 PM
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I agree. JWT is an excellent setup.

2008 Frontier SE KC 4X2 6 Speed
Performance Mods-Uprev Dyno Tuned, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, 350Z Upper & Lower Plenums, Custom Mid-intake, Motordyne 5/16" Spacer, Truetrac LSD, 4.11 Gears, OBX Headers, True Duals w/Magnaflow Mufflers, & X-Pipe, Custom Magnaflow Testpipes, Volant CAI, Nismo Thermostat, WRP CP, Mishimoto Catch Can, JWT Lightweight Flywheel & Clutch
Other Mods-Nismo 18" x 8.5" wheels, Dunlop Sport 265/60/18 tires, Morimoto Mini H1 5K HID Projectors
276 WHP & 288 FTLB--14.15 @ 95.88mph
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