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DIY 2" body lift
There are a couple of members that have done this DIY 2" body lift but I thought I'd start a thread in this section to compile what is needed to perform this on both the CC and KC models. I did the research on the subject about 4 months back but put it on hold til now. I have started aquiring what is needed and will post during the process until its done.
In my opinion it is the ideal size body lift for our trucks. Not too much frame showing and a lot of the re-bracketing will not have to take place like it does in the 3" BL. I have the parts list for the PA brand 3" lift and its a huge list with 35 pages of instructions. I'm trying to also do the body lift as cheap as possible without effecting quality. No shortcuts just to save a dollar and hopefully it will be reversible when everything is finished. I'm going to try and do this for less than $100. We'll see. Here is penski61's thread in the Exterior Mod section whats needed for a 2" lift His info and my new rims and tires is what got me going on this subject again. Thanks penski. OK, lets talk bolts The link to the site where he got his bolts http://www.chromebolts.info/default.asp Like Penski61 said we will need 2 bolt sizes for the body mounts. M12 1.25 x 160mm class 8.8 M10 1.25 x 100mm class 8.8 Mxx is the diameter---1.25 is the thread pitch (fine)---1xxmm is the length---class 8.8 is equiv to grade 5 (class 10.6 is grade 8 ). The M12 should be used for the cab mounts and the M10 should be used for the bed mounts. The M10's are easy to come by but the M12 is not. Most available M12 bolts at that length are 1.75 thread pitch (coarse). The link above is the only place that I have seen that stocks it and they are closed til Sept 17th. I believe I will need (6) M12 for cab and (6) M10 for the bed M12 is $3.99 / M10 is $1.70. If anyone can find a vendor that stocks the M12 x 1.25 x 160mm in a 8.8 or 10.6, they would become research pimp of the year. I've spent about 4 hours online searching and called every one of my hardware vendors and no luck. On to the blocks. OK, here is a link to a place that sells the PA blocks seperately. http://app.vendio.com/storefront?vie...8146134&mode=1 Notice they didnt list Nissan and didnt call out the height or width, just 2". The part is fiberglass reinforced plastic from what I've read. No idea to what the bolt hole diameter is. I decided to go with UHMW blocks. It is mainly used as bushings or guides in equipment, is self lubricating (won't squeak), cannot be painted, and is highly impact resistant. You can buy them ready to install here http://www.4crawler.com/ or you can make your own. I'm making my own. I purchased grey oil-filled UHMW here http://www.mcmaster.com/ part# 5243t23 for 2" diameter part# 5243t27 for 2.5" diameter I got 2' of the 2" and 1' of the 2.5" (may be different for the CC) for $39.10 shipped 5 day ground. I ordered late Monday night and recieved it Wed morning. That was amazing! From what I can see under my KC truck, I need (6) 2" blocks for the bed, (2) 2" blocks for the mounts behind the front bumper, and (4) 2.5" blocks for the cab directly under the passenger area, none of which has been comfirmed. Its not that easy to find them all when you dont have a creeper. First time I looked I missed 2 under the bed cuz they are right by the front 2 bed mounts. I'll documant excactly where they are on my KC and post a diagram. Looking at the PA diagram I believe the CC has (4) 2" for bed, (2) 2" for front behind bumper, (2) 2" for mid cab, (4) 2.5" under passenger compartment but I'm not sure??? If somebody with a CC can comfirm the quantity and sizes that would be great. Here is a photo of a piece I brought home. The flash makes it look lighter in color. Grey UHMW.jpg I used an ordinary 8" chop saw to cut the blocks. It has a 80 tooth carbide blade so it cut the plastic like butter. The plastic is self lubing so the blade never got hot and it was cool to the touch right after cutting. I set my stop block @ 2 1/16" and was done making all my cuts in 15 minutes. Our shop is setup for aluminum, steele, and plastic fabrication so I wasn't to worried about getting it cut but I was suprised that the crapiest, smallest saw in our shop handled it with ease. I used the small chop saw since most people on here should have access to one. I can't say if any other blade tooth counts will work but when it comes to plastic, the more teeth, the better. I've seen people use plywood panel blades and they did OK. Tomorrow I'll get to crackin on the drill press. Hopefully I can track down some bolts soon or I'm dead in the water. Front Bumper Template. Print actual scale and verify with ruler. bumper plate.pdf Last edited by tha_reids : 10-01-2007 at 06:53 PM. |
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In england, my best attempt, with a socket head...may be way off, lol, I just learned about thread pitch last week....http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/M12-x-1...-A2_A62UK.aspx
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| The Following User Says Thank You to tholosophy For This Useful Post: | ||
Ozroder (10-05-2008) | ||
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Quote:
It is the correct size but in stainless. I didn't even bother converting to US dollars (damn Euro!). It would kill the budget in bolts alone not to mention what customs would add. Drilled all the blocks today. This is by far the easiest plastic I've worked with. It basically produces almost no heat so there is no melting involved which is great. Total time to cut and drill was approx 1 hour. I'll probably ease the outside edges with a de-burring tool and call it done. Last edited by tha_reids : 09-14-2007 at 04:34 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost |
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This will be a good post, I'll be sure to check on it.
What are you going to do about the bumpers?
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2007 King Cab SE 4x4 6-SPD Volant Intake - Deaver Mini-Pack Icon 2.5 - Radflo Rear Shocks Stereo Stuff - 285/75 Nitto Terra Grapplers KC SlimLites - WeatherTech In-Channel Visor SHIFT_4x4 is $X$...think about it. |
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hey i have a question for you...if you got all the info need for a first gen 2"-2.5" body would you make all of that for us(me) too? because $200 is gonna kill me lol
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Black 2003 Frontier cc se Exterior mods:Torsion bar cranked, AAL, RED calipers, TSC tool box, 2 wilson antennas, Frontier decal, stubby antenna, fog lights on w/ the parking light. side steps taken off Bullet glasspack with a chrome tip.Interior mods:2 8" kicker CVR, kicker 300.1 amp, Cobra 25 ltd classic CB |
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tha_reids---> so how about making us some premade kits? hehe. you're from sac right? im way down in socal.
by the way, im still trying to find a good place to get some bolts for this kit.
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![]() 2006 Nissan Frontier KC, CST spindles, mini lift kit(prg), 2.5" deavers (prg), ss brake lines, adjustable shackles (prg), bilstein 5125's, 8k HID, DIY 2" Body Lift, TITAN SWAP: titan upper and lower control arms, and tie-rod extensions (prg) . MB Motoring mb72 bfg at 285/75/16, CUSTOM Titan Carrier bearing drop kit, sliders, and front bumper, FET foglights, etc future: cherry bomb and flowmaster series 40. |
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thats what i was wondering lol i wanted him to make the blocks for me
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Black 2003 Frontier cc se Exterior mods:Torsion bar cranked, AAL, RED calipers, TSC tool box, 2 wilson antennas, Frontier decal, stubby antenna, fog lights on w/ the parking light. side steps taken off Bullet glasspack with a chrome tip.Interior mods:2 8" kicker CVR, kicker 300.1 amp, Cobra 25 ltd classic CB |
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tha_reids....check this out. they got the same bolts and they have a link for the bolts.
http://www.roninwheelers.com/vbullet...ead.php?t=1250 www.metricspecialties.com
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![]() 2006 Nissan Frontier KC, CST spindles, mini lift kit(prg), 2.5" deavers (prg), ss brake lines, adjustable shackles (prg), bilstein 5125's, 8k HID, DIY 2" Body Lift, TITAN SWAP: titan upper and lower control arms, and tie-rod extensions (prg) . MB Motoring mb72 bfg at 285/75/16, CUSTOM Titan Carrier bearing drop kit, sliders, and front bumper, FET foglights, etc future: cherry bomb and flowmaster series 40. |
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