I'm lost. Help, power windows. - Nissan Frontier Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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I'm lost. Help, power windows.

2015 Frontier S
Manual 5 spd.
Manual locks (now power)
Manual windows (no power)

So, I've been trying to install, rather, retro in, power windows. I cannot for the life of me get an ACC 30A power source. I looked at the fuse box and I got "Tow Hitch" but that's too long of a run. In the fuse I have "50 A PWR WDW, BCM...etc." fuse, but I don't know whether the "PWR WDW" is power windows? Pictures are HERE. I need some help in this. Also, I have, as seen in the pictures, a pre-wire for something on the doors. Is it the rear-view windows? I'm lost and this is getting to be a lot more time consuming than I want it to be.


Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 08:29 PM
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Check courtesy between your model and one that has what you want. I think you'll find that Nissan wires everyone the same for main harness(this I don't know though might be different harness between auto and manual and 4 to 6cyl) then when it comes to accessories options they got different ends or say branches off the main harness or tree trunk. My SE 6cyl has a different wire that plugs into main harness than the Pro4x 6cyl cause it came with heated mirrors this wire plugs in just behind kick panel you could look there and see if there isa taped off pigtail
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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@Sabretooth

There are a few pigtails above the pedals near the OBD. There is also one that is in the door itself. Would it come down to me testing for amperage? Also, if the window does power on demand, how would I test if there is no load? This is the first time doing windows. I already blew a few fuses doing this.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 06:51 AM
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Why don't u just run a wire from the battery? It's not that hard, put an in line fuse then run it to a relay. Make sure u use at least 10 gauge wire. I added power windows to my truck. U can find Universal window kits online, but u have to supply window motors.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 10:00 AM
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I had to do a similar installation to power my amateur radio equipment... Not much in the way of high current inside the cab and really couldn't find a reliable ignition line under the hood.

  • One 4 Gauge Wire from the battery to a dual fuse holder (2 x 40 amp fuses) with two 8 gauge output wires.
  • One 8 gauge wire goes to a distribution block, through the wire loom into the cab.
  • The other 8 gauge wire goes to a 60A relay, then a second distribution block, through the wire loom into the cab.
  • The relay is powered by a pair of 18 gauge wires that also are in the loom to the cab. These wires are connected to an ignition source in the driver footwell area.

End result is that I have two 40A power connections that are available in the cab. One directly to the battery and one controlled by the ignition switch.






Let the mods begin! The project list can be found in the Geek My Ride Garage!
Previously owned a 1985 Nissan King Cab 4wd and a 1980 Datsun 2wd Pickup.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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@LiLi : I have the motors and what not, it was finding where to tap off the power. Also, @geekmyride I really like that idea. I never had to deal with relay and am curious if you have a visual schematic of the relays. I think I'm a little lost on how the power is on only when the ACC is on. Is it through the relay, and is the dist. block just a bus bar more or less? Thanks in advance. I currently rednecked it into my wipers motor. Just to have it, only for them to work when wipers are on. At least my windshield will be clean. But i do need a more perm solution.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 04:51 PM
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The distribution blocks are like buss bars. I put them in so I could add additional connections easily if needed. As I have it now, with one connection, they could be eliminated.

The relay basically takes 12v ignition (low current) to operate a set of contacts. This lets you run light bars, transmitters, and winches without having to run 8 gauge wire to high current switches in your dash.

I am not near a schematic at the moment, but will post one later today...
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redness88 View Post
@LiLi : I have the motors and what not, it was finding where to tap off the power. Also, @geekmyride I really like that idea. I never had to deal with relay and am curious if you have a visual schematic of the relays. I think I'm a little lost on how the power is on only when the ACC is on. Is it through the relay, and is the dist. block just a bus bar more or less? Thanks in advance. I currently rednecked it into my wipers motor. Just to have it, only for them to work when wipers are on. At least my windshield will be clean. But i do need a more perm solution.
Here is the schematic...



The fuses are shown separately, but are actually one piece. The relay has pin numbers on the schematic and a picture of the relay I used (minus the mounting tab). I omitted the distribution blocks for simplicity.

Wire from the battery terminal is 4 gauge. From the fuses (including through the relay) are 8 gauge all the way into the cab. The relay power is 18 gauge as it draws little current.

Hope that helps...



Let the mods begin! The project list can be found in the Geek My Ride Garage!
Previously owned a 1985 Nissan King Cab 4wd and a 1980 Datsun 2wd Pickup.
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