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Need new shocks

2K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  Mfed 
#1 ·
I need new shocks on my 2008 nismo. Has anyone done this job, is it something I can do in the driveway?
 
#2 ·
Yes,but it still depends on your skill level.If you have any doubt ask someone to help.Just be careful removing the spring.
 
#9 ·
Others already covered the control arm question, but if you choose to separate it, you can use a Pitman Arm Puller like this to make it easier:


I tried smacking the spindle with a hammer for more than half an hour without any luck before switching to a pry bar (I don't recommend using a prybar). I managed to separate one side but the other wouldn't budge so I rented the tool pictured above and used that. It presses up on the ball joint stud while pulling down on the spindle so you won't pop the ball joint out of its socket. You still want to leave the nut on the stud loosely to catch it when it pops loose.

As far as the sway bar, yes you do need to separate that. Just undo the nut s on the end links to release it.

As others said, it would be wise to spray down the bolts, especially the lower shock bolts with penetrating oil before trying to break them loose. I would also spray the upper shock bolts since they are much smaller and more susceptible to snapping off.
 
#4 ·
I think you will do fine.Some people don't even know what a spring compressor is.
 
#5 ·
I'd recommend getting a back up Nut and bolt for the front struts where it mounts to the lower control arm! I'm 250 lbs and still had a breaker bar w/ a cheater pipe. Also, if you do separate the upper control arm, be sure to disconnect the abs wire! Just replaced front of mine w/ coil overs and rear shocks w/ Rancho 9000's bout 3 weeks ago!
 
#8 ·
like chris said, don't need to but makes it easier. I did the drivers side first, unpluged abs line, then did passenger side and forgot abs line, stripped the nut and bolt on lower control arm....seems as if OE factory use lock tite, gorrilla glue and weld the damn bolt in there! I'd recommend also to spray them mo fo's down with a good penetrating oil the day before, or better yet daily the week before in hopes of breaking them loose (lol)

I again had a 4' cheater pipe on a breaker bar (on the nut) and bounced on it for it to finally break loose.

Hope this helps and good luck!
 
#10 · (Edited)
I admit I'm new here and wrenching on the truck is still newish to me (long history with other cars and motorcycles though...), but when I replaced my stock front Bils (Pro4x) 2 weeks ago I had zero issues removing them with the UCA connected to the spindle - plenty of room to simply drop, twist, tilt and extract, barely even bumping the surrounding hardware in the process. I did rotate the sway bar out of the way as suggested by...well everyone, but that was cake. I can see where separating the UCA would be beneficial if you're replacing the stock unit with an extended coilover, or adding a top-mount spacer, but I honestly wouldn't go through the hassle of disassembling the ball joint if you're not going the "longer than stock" route. My truck only has just over 1k miles on it so I didn't have to deal with weather-welded bolts and everything came apart with no surprises, but the ball joint separation thing seems like more work than it's worth with a stock-to-stock length replacement.

Humbly, my n00bish $.02 :nerd:
 
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