We regularly have to drive through deep snow for work in my '13 Frontier.
Last winter I went looking for better traction and got some Cooper Discovery M & S tires. They are better than the stock tires, but not mind-blowing. Mostly we can power through until the snow is deep enough that it comes up to the frame, then we get stuck.
So I think I need a little lifting, maybe bigger, more aggressive tires? But I'm not a truck guy, so I'm going to sit back and let you experts tell me what I should do.
285 75 16 Toyo MT. 10 psi. Full skids to make the front like a sled. Chains for the rear if it is not super deep or your jus going through drifts
You notice there is no dirt in the tracks? That is because the snow is deaper then we can get the tires down to. It is also easier to move when below freezing.
When I bought the Discovery M & S last winter they told me they were the largest I could fit on my truck. Will lifting improve clearance so I can run larger tires (possibly PLUS chains?)? Or is it more of an engine power/gearing thing?
For the record, we're not traveling long distances in the deep snow, half-mile or less. I've just had to shovel and back out the times we've gotten stuck.
- I can lift the truck to gain about 2"
- Then we can put on bigger tires and get another 1.5"?
- And I can remove the air dam from below the engine and gain just under 2"
So I should be able to get ~5" more clearance all told?
If you went from a 265/70/16 (30.6") tire to a 285/75/16 (32.8"), you would gain (32.8-30.6) / 2 = 1.1" from tires.
Even at stock width, I definitely didn't have enough clearance to run tire chains in the front with 285/75's. Even rear clearance would have been pretty iffy.
If you went from a 265/70/16 (31.6") tire to a 285/75/16 (32.8"), you would gain (32.8-31.6) / 2 = 0.6" from tires.
Even at stock width, I definitely didn't have enough clearance to run tire chains in the front with 285/75's. Even rear clearance would have been pretty iffy.
You'll gain 3+" under the front end (depending on old vs new tire size) and close to 5" under the bumper if you shave the valance as well. You'll only get the extra clearance from the tires under the rear diff
I run a 2" lift with 255/85R16 (33" narrow) BFG KM2's. They are excellent in the deep snow, but they suck on the hard pack because there is ZERO siping on them. I run them as my winter tires because I live on a dead end road that is usually the last to be plowed in any moderate to severe storms, and even if they do plow, my driveway is the end of the road so i'll usually end up with a serious snow bank in my way.
In retrospect Good Year Duratracs probably would've been a better choice, I would've sacrificed a negligible amount of deep snow traction for a vast improvement in hard pack / ice.
If I was gonna recommend a tire, look at the Goodyear Duratracs. I got them because of the extra thick tread, off-road capabilities, and its still rated as a snow tire. One drawback is they are heavy, but they will chew through *everything*. In between the lugs there's small teeth that grip in deep snow and mud like you wouldn't believe. I use them in a fairly northerly climate (Edmonton AB) and I've driven them in some fairly austere conditions, but not once was I forced into 4wd with them, but throw it on for fun and you'll just rip through any heavy snow. Not as good on ice as a dedicated winter road tire however.
If you're lifting well you have a huge variety of options. Bigger tires will lift your diffs and will be the most effective for offroading, but this may be an expensive option. With much bigger tires, your gear ratio won't be the best and your brakes will be underpowered, so keep all that in mind. Depends on what axles you have you may be able to replace your gears, and you may have to do some body modifications in the front fender wells. Suspension lift is gonna lift up your chassis and body, and there's lots of options for these, but get more complicated as you get higher. Fabtech and Calmini lifts won't do you service for clearance despite their advertised high lifts. Body lifts will only help you lift your body, you can do 2" without getting into issues, and that can prevent body modification if you really upsize your tires.
So many options... so good luck staying in your budget, god knows most don't
If I was gonna recommend a tire, look at the Goodyear Duratracs. I got them because of the extra thick tread, off-road capabilities, and its still rated as a snow tire. One drawback is they are heavy, but they will chew through *everything*. In between the lugs there's small teeth that grip in deep snow and mud like you wouldn't believe. I use them in a fairly northerly climate (Edmonton AB) and I've driven them in some fairly austere conditions, but not once was I forced into 4wd with them, but throw it on for fun and you'll just rip through any heavy snow. Not as good on ice as a dedicated winter road tire however.
So many options... so good luck staying in your budget, god knows most don't
Nope. 285/75/16 Duratracks weigh 54lbs, BFG A/T's and General Grabber AT2's weigh 59 Lbs. That was final decision in choosing them over other tires.
Just keep in mind that deep snow and ice/shallow/packed snow are two different animals. Here in MN I would never run a mud tire in the winter. your current tires are no good for deep snow, but probably rock in all other winter situations.
My local 4WD shop guy is recommending the lift kit (2" front, 1.5" rear) and a leveling kit to improve clearance on the front end. He's also recommending BF Goodrich All-Terrain tires.
For snow that is deep enough that you can't cut to the ground you want to get as wide a tire as you can for flotation. For shallow snow getting to the gound helps so narrow is better.
For wetter, heavier snow I would suggest a more aggressive mud tire for better cleaning. If it were colder, fluffier snow then I would go for more of an AT tread (fluffy snow behaves more like sand than mud).
Other than that ground clearance is key, so as large a lift, tire dia. as you can fit. Chains are usless in deep snow. Skid plates are a bit of a plus/minus. They help prevent low points snow plowing but the surface friction means that when part of the underbody hangs up, all of the underbody hangs up. This means that you usually get a little further before getting stuck but one you stop you are REALLY stuck.
Lockers or LSDs (preferably on both axles if you can).
If you are going to add a winch I would add it to the rear. If you can't go forward dragging yourself further in rarely helps.
Generally speaking, tall skinny tires and chains. Above statement about chains being useless in deep snow is nuts. Chains are often the only way to even move in deep snow.
Up here in Prince George , BC , we gets all kinds of snow.... so A coulple years ago, I got a set of BFG Commercial Traction's In 235/85/16 studded, from Costco. My rig is lifted 4" in the front and 2" in the back. These tires perform very well in most conditions,especiallty deep snow. They do make a bit of road noise , but I don't mind that. I just wish I was able to put more studs in them. This truck is an awsome winter machine,especially in a 6 speed with a clutch, can you say Rally time? feel sorry for people in cars LOL!
MAC
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