Raine's 2014 4x4 "KEIRA" Build Thread - Page 33 - Nissan Frontier Forum
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post #321 of 411 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 07:45 PM
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I noticed that after i installed the King shocks my truck still looked like it had just tad too much rake. First I thought about dialing in 1/2" of lift but I was wary of preloading the springs too much and altering the comfy ride. I came across 1/2" lift spacers from PRG so I ordered up a pair. When they arrived they just sat in my garage until I had a chance to put them in last week.

The machined spacers are actually only 1/4" thick, but from what I understand the suspension geometry of my truck has a 2:1 ratio, so that 1/4" at the shock end equates to 1/2" at the wheel end. Before installing I had to round up some hardware. The King shocks use bolts to attach to the coil bucket up top, so I went to the local hardware store and picked up new grade-8 hardware that were all 1/4" longer than the original King hardware to compensate for the added spacer thickness. After raising the front end on jack stands, I elected to unbolt the uniball on the UCAs to give me enough room to squeeze the spacer in without having to unbolt the bottom of the shock.


New lift spacers and grade-8 hardware.


Top of the king shock unbolted.


Spacer in position on top of the King shock.

For a moment I was a little worried because the spacer had a larger outside diameter than the King shock top hat, but it turned out that the spacer fit perfectly flush underneath the coil bucket area.


You can see here that the spacer is a perfect fit.


From the outside view you can’t even see the spacer.

As noted in my Suspension Down Travel Notes (02.10.16) post, I already had 2-5/8" of suspension down travel. With the spacers installed the suspension down travel amount didn't change - which makes complete sense since I did not alter the shock length in any way. However, the lower control arm was now extended an extra 1/2” lower than before. Combined with the extended King shocks there was concern that the suspension would be too extended and that the lower spring perch would contact the front axle driveshaft. With everything torqued down and in place, I double-checked the clearance and found that there was still a lot of clearance:
The only thing you did not mention was the possibility of "shock crush" on full compression. The stock setup at 1.5" of lift the are at the verge of crushing the shock and PRG now adds a taller bump stop to many of their 1.5" lifts where as before they only did so at 2". An extended travel shock is longer and will crush sooner than a stock length shock. I do believe there is a slight difference between the OEM yellow bilstein (10.55' compressed length) and the black OEM shock (~10.25), and that is why many of the ebay lift state "will not work w/ Nismo/pro4x" as they do not supply a taller bump stop.

At only 1/2" of lift you probably don't have anything to worry about. But at 1" I would think contact could be made.

This isn't something that is very easy to check either, as you need to remove the spring from the coil over install in the shock back in the truck and compress the suspension.

Here is a picture of my OEM shocks with a 2" spacer, OEM bump stop suspension compressed by a floor jack.


Though initially it appeared that I had a tiny bit of space, testing with a zip tie one the shaft showed that it was not. The zip to got blown off as the shock crushed it. I installed the taller bump stop supplied by PRG and I am no longer "crushing".

06 KC NISMO 4x4 6sp

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post #322 of 411 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 07:51 PM
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And not to be all gloom and doom, I really enjoy reading your build thread. Nice pictures. Well thought out mods. And articulate write up.

06 KC NISMO 4x4 6sp
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post #323 of 411 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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And not to be all gloom and doom, I really enjoy reading your build thread. Nice pictures. Well thought out mods. And articulate write up.
No worries... to be specific, which bump stop are you referring to?

- Raine.

"...doesn't look like anything to me."
click above for my build thread

TYPE CREW CAB SV 4x4 COLOR NIGHT ARMOR LIFT 3.5"/2.5" NAME KEIRA

SUSP: Custom King Shocks . Total Chaos . Level-8 . BF Goodrich . Deaver . Nisstec . Bilstein . PRG
EXT: White Knuckle . PIAA . Truxedo . White Rhino . Firestik . Morimoto . Mitsuba . Evoc . BlueSea
A/V: Hertz Audio . JL Audio . Kenwood . Alpine . Dynamat . Fr/Rr Cameras
MODS: Power Tailgate Lock . Custom CB Antenna Mount . Trailer Plug Relocate . Diff Breather Mod
MORE: Midland . UltraGauge . Raingler . Working OEM SWC, Bluetooth, USB . Some Stickers
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post #324 of 411 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 09:05 PM
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No worries... to be specific, which bump stop are you referring to?
The compression bump stop. Big one on the bottom.
PRG Products
THis kit includes it at 1.5"
The 1.5" speicilally states that you don't need it at 1.5"
PRG Products

I think this has to do with the Blistein vs black shock. The 5100 are the same dimension as the yellow 4600, which are both longer than the Black OEM shock.

One simple way to monitor your shock travel to see if you are crushing is to put a small zip tie on the shaft.


This way you can monitor the travel used. YOu can do this with a dab of grease on the bump stop and see if you transfer the grease the the strike pad to see if you full compressed the suspension.

06 KC NISMO 4x4 6sp
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post #325 of 411 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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I can understand what you're explaining... I'm not sure if there's a difference regarding regular shocks vs. the coilovers I have. I've dropped the front into some deep dips the last time we went off-road with no issues that I recall (no thump/bottom out noise, no visible equipment damage, etc.) but I sent an email out to my suspension guy anyways just to see what his take on this "shock crush" thing is. I'll update when I get a reply.

- Raine.

"...doesn't look like anything to me."
click above for my build thread

TYPE CREW CAB SV 4x4 COLOR NIGHT ARMOR LIFT 3.5"/2.5" NAME KEIRA

SUSP: Custom King Shocks . Total Chaos . Level-8 . BF Goodrich . Deaver . Nisstec . Bilstein . PRG
EXT: White Knuckle . PIAA . Truxedo . White Rhino . Firestik . Morimoto . Mitsuba . Evoc . BlueSea
A/V: Hertz Audio . JL Audio . Kenwood . Alpine . Dynamat . Fr/Rr Cameras
MODS: Power Tailgate Lock . Custom CB Antenna Mount . Trailer Plug Relocate . Diff Breather Mod
MORE: Midland . UltraGauge . Raingler . Working OEM SWC, Bluetooth, USB . Some Stickers
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post #326 of 411 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 03:37 PM
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Hot damn Raine your truck is looking really nice now with that spacer installed.

As far as crushing the shock goes... I don't think it's much to worry about. If the extended Kings are the same length as the extended Radflos, it shouldn't be a problem. I'm running 1" (1/2" thick) spacers on top of my Radflos with no bottoming out.

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post #327 of 411 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by WreckDiver1321 View Post
Hot damn Raine your truck is looking really nice now with that spacer installed.

As far as crushing the shock goes... I don't think it's much to worry about. If the extended Kings are the same length as the extended Radflos, it shouldn't be a problem. I'm running 1" (1/2" thick) spacers on top of my Radflos with no bottoming out.
Thank you sir. I'm a lot happier now with the current ride height setup. 1/2" makes a big difference... that's what she said.

As for the "shock crush" thing, I'm not worried since I already had the front end drop more than a few times the last time I went on the dirt. I'm pretty sure I would have heard some strange noise if the shock bottomed out.

- Raine.

"...doesn't look like anything to me."
click above for my build thread

TYPE CREW CAB SV 4x4 COLOR NIGHT ARMOR LIFT 3.5"/2.5" NAME KEIRA

SUSP: Custom King Shocks . Total Chaos . Level-8 . BF Goodrich . Deaver . Nisstec . Bilstein . PRG
EXT: White Knuckle . PIAA . Truxedo . White Rhino . Firestik . Morimoto . Mitsuba . Evoc . BlueSea
A/V: Hertz Audio . JL Audio . Kenwood . Alpine . Dynamat . Fr/Rr Cameras
MODS: Power Tailgate Lock . Custom CB Antenna Mount . Trailer Plug Relocate . Diff Breather Mod
MORE: Midland . UltraGauge . Raingler . Working OEM SWC, Bluetooth, USB . Some Stickers
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post #328 of 411 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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How-To: Nissan Rogue Key Swap (04.23.16)

I finally got around to ordering and switching to a Nissan Rogue key. for those of you who may not know what the Rogue key looks like, hereís mine as it arrived in the mail, still uncut:


OEM Nissan Rogue key, not the aftermarket copy version.

Note that the keyless entry controls are part of the key head much like modern vehicles - meaning no more separate key and remote control fob. The whole job took me a total of 30 minutes - this included the 5 mile round trip drive to my local hardware store for the key cutting. This is an easy ďmodĒ, but understand that I chose to use the existing transponder inside my valet key instead of going to the dealership to have them reprogram the new transponder in the Rogue key.

TOOLS/PARTS USED
1. My OEM Nissan valet key (transponder type)
2. New OEM Nissan Rogue key/remote combo*
3. Knife or Thin Prying Tool
4. Phillips Screwdriver, Small
(*thanks to racquetballer for linking me to the Rogue key on eBay)


STEP 1: Before I started the swap, I took the Rogue key to get it cut to match my OEM master key. That way I could test if the actual mechanical portion of the key worked before doing any electronic stuff (transponder swap, programming). After the Rogue key was cut, I held my master key next to the ignition cylinder and then used the Rogue key to try to start the truck. It worked (tried with the key in both directions too) so the mechanical portion was finished.

STEP 2: Now on to the valet key. Using a small knife, I removed the transponder tray out of the valet key. The tray sits pretty flush inside the valet key head, so you have to just use the knife tip and slowly pry at the edge of the transponder tray until it pops out. Itís not glued or anything, itís just a friction fit. Take your time here so you don't damage the key, the tray, or (most importantly) the transponder itself.


Hereís the transponder tray being removed from the OEM valet key.


A better look at how the transponder goes into the valet key.

STEP 3: Now switch to the Rogue key. Use a small Phillips screwdriver and remove the single screw first, then gently pry the two halves of the Rogue key head apart to reveal the insides. The key snaps together, so you'll need to use some medium force to pop it open. Once you have the halves separated, take a look at the battery half of the key, and youíll easily see the transponder location (as well as an aftermarket transponder already installed).


Rogue key opened up, thereís the transponder near the battery.

STEP 4: Since I was going to use my valet key transponder, I pried out the aftermarket transponder from the Rogue key, then inserted my valet key transponder in its place.


Swapping transponders in the Rogue key.

STEP 5: With my transponder in place, it was time to reassemble the Rogue key.


Donít forget to reinstall the small Phillips screw.

At this point I tested if the key would start the truck, and this time it did it on its own; I no longer had to hold the master key next to the ignition cylinder since the Rogue key now had its own matched transponder. The only thing left was to program the remote buttons to communicate with my truck.

Some people go to the dealer for this, but I was specifically avoiding having to go to the dealership since I knew that I could find instructions online to program the remote myself. Let me tell you - itís really, really easy to do. There's more in-depth instructions online on how to do this, but here's how I did it:

PROGRAMMING ROGUE KEY REMOTE BUTTONS
1. Open the door, sit in the driver's seat, and close all doors.
2. Lock doors using the lock switch on the door. This is important!
3. Insert the Master key completely and remove it completely at least 6 times (within 10 seconds).
4. If you did step #3 right, when you remove the Master key the last time, the flashers should blink twice.
5. Insert new Rogue key into ignition cylinder.
6.Turn the Rogue key to the "ACC" position.
7. Press any button on Rogue key - the flashers should blink twice, confirming programming.
8. Remove key, unlock doors, exit the vehicle and test the keyless buttons.
9. Done.

EDIT: Further research explained that you can only program 4 remotes per vehicle. Most people get two master keys and one valet key, so that's #1-3. Programming a Rogue key makes it #4 so for most people, you can stop here. However, if you have had a key replaced (or are unsure if there's only 3 slots programmed) you can go a step further by repeating the above steps for each of your existing keys. The reason for this is because if there's already 4 keys programmed in, and you add the Rogue key programming, the vehicle will forget the oldest programmed remote. The last thing you want to have happen is need to use that "oldest" programmed remote and find out that it doesn't work!

The online instructions show a different way to program multiple keys but I just did the above steps for each of my existing keys for the same result. By programming all of your existing keys and the Rogue key at the same time, you can ensure that all of your keys work.


Cut, programmed, and good to go!

Last edited by raine; 01-13-2017 at 04:46 PM.
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post #329 of 411 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 07:28 PM
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Great write up! Will be programming mine this coming week. Thank you SIR!!

________
'15 SV KC, 4.0 V6, 6-sp, 4x2 Worktruck & DD
VTP items = Standard Equipment on SV 6-sp
ARE TW Bedshell, Ride-Rite Air Springs, Morimoto XB LED Fogs, OEM Mudflaps/Steprails, Bully Hitch Step,
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________
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post #330 of 411 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Great write up! Will be programming mine this coming week. Thank you SIR!!
No prob, shouldn't take you long at all. I was surprised how quickly I got the programming done.

- Raine.

"...doesn't look like anything to me."
click above for my build thread

TYPE CREW CAB SV 4x4 COLOR NIGHT ARMOR LIFT 3.5"/2.5" NAME KEIRA

SUSP: Custom King Shocks . Total Chaos . Level-8 . BF Goodrich . Deaver . Nisstec . Bilstein . PRG
EXT: White Knuckle . PIAA . Truxedo . White Rhino . Firestik . Morimoto . Mitsuba . Evoc . BlueSea
A/V: Hertz Audio . JL Audio . Kenwood . Alpine . Dynamat . Fr/Rr Cameras
MODS: Power Tailgate Lock . Custom CB Antenna Mount . Trailer Plug Relocate . Diff Breather Mod
MORE: Midland . UltraGauge . Raingler . Working OEM SWC, Bluetooth, USB . Some Stickers
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