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Raine's 2014 SV CC 4x4 "KEIRA" Build Thread

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#1 · (Edited)
2014 Frontier SV CC 4x4 "KEIRA" Build Thread
Thanks for stopping by and welcome =)

LAST 5 UPDATES:

MORE THINGS WRITTEN BY ME:













INTRO
Buy a truck, do stuff, take pictures, and end up with a build thread… by the time I started this thread I’ve had my truck for a little over a year now, and I’ve been steadily doing stuff to it since the first day I drove it home so I decided it was time to make my own build thread to keep track of everything I’m doing. Speaking of the beginning… without getting too complicated, I had a change in lifestyle. I started mountain biking, I started camping, and I started to realize that having a lowered SC300 was no longer practical. I was always a Nissan guy at heart (previously had a Maxima, Pathfinder, 200SX SE-R, 240SX... don't ask me how a Lexus got in there) so I knew the next vehicle was going to be a Nissan Frontier. That said, what basically happened next was:



NOTE –This is my third vehicle named “Keira” because I'm in love with Keira Knightley. I had a Nissan 240SX named "Keira", my Lexus SC300 was named “Keira”, and now my Frontier is named "Keira." We’ll just leave it at that. Ok - with the intro out of the way, let's get to the thread, listed from oldest to current. Oh, and feel free to comment or ask questions if you like :)

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INFO
USERNAME: Raine
YEAR: 2014
TRIM: SV 4x4 Crew Cab
COLOR: Night Armor

NOTE: List items in order chronologically. The number at the beginning of the list items below goes to the original post # in this thread - the text link goes to the project:KEIRA website post. EOL means “End Of Life” - the mod is old, removed, or replaced.

AUDIO/VIDEO
(#022) Alpine PDX-V9 5-Channel 1000w Class-D Amplifier
(#022) JL Audio 10TW-1 10" Subwoofers
(#043) Modified OEM Bluetooth Microphone
(#043) Working OEM Steering Wheel Controls
(#043) Working OEM USB Port w/Audio
(#043) Working OEM Back-up Camera
(#398) JL Audio TWK-88 Digital Signal Processor
(#399) Hertz Audio Hi Energy HSK-165 6.5” Component System
(#401) Hertz Audio Dieci DCX-165.3 6.5" Coaxial Speakers
(#485) Under-seat Amp and DSP Platforms
(#584) Super NES Classic Retro Gaming Console
(#642) Soundstream ST2.1000D 2-Channel Amplifier
(#656) SiriusXM SXV-300 Satellite Tuner
(#859) Kenwood Excelon Ref. Series XR DNX-995S Head Unit
(#1082) Best Mod Ever - Sinjimoru Cable Holder
(#1271) N02 HD Infrared Trail Camera

SUSPENSION
(#179) Bilstein 5125 Custom Length Rear Shocks (for 2-3" Lift)
(#179) PRG/Deaver 2-leaf AAL (for 2.5" Lift)
(#179) Nisstec 2.5-degree Axle Shims
(#179) Nisstec Zinc-Plated 7.5" U-Bolts
(#185) OEM Nissan LCA Camber/Caster Bolts
(#203) Custom King Off-Road Custom 2.5" Coilovers
(#221) OEM Front Sway Bar Removed
(#318) PRG 1/2" Front Lift Spacers
(#455 / #456) Custom External Mounts for King Reservoirs
(#890) SPC Adjustable Upper Control Arms (UCAs)

WHEELS, TIRES, & BRAKES
(#130 / #131) Level 8 Bully Pro 6 Wheels
(#142) R1 Motorsports Drilled & Slotted Rotors
(#142) Red Painted Brake Calipers
(#601) Modded FJ Spare Tire cover
(#906) New Hubcentric Rings and Lug Nuts
(#1053) Falken Wildpeak A/T-3W Tires

EXTERIOR MODS
(#006) Truxedo LoPro Qt Tonneau Cover
(#006) OEM Genuine Nissan Front & Rear Splash Guards
(#006) OEM Genuine Nissan Side Window Deflector Set
(#072) OEM Genuine Nissan Navara Emblems
(#245) OEM Genuine Nissan Titan "4x4 Off-Road" Decals
(#536) EZ-Down Tailgate Damper Kit
(#624) Dee Zee Heavy Duty Fitted Truck Bed Mat
(#937) OEM Genuine Nissan Rope Hooks (w/added Security)
(#1051) OEM Genuine Nissan Bed Divider
(#1107) Rough Country Side Step Rails

INTERIOR MODS
(#007) UltraGauge EM-Plus OBD2 Monitor
(#026) Dynamat Extreme Sound Deadener (Doors)
(#034) Dynamat Extreme Sound Deadener (Rear Wall and Floor)
(#149) Raingler Rear Passenger Headrest Handles
(#665) Center Armrest Cloth Cover
(#1067) MaxLiner/SmartLiner All-Weather Floor Mats

OFF-ROADY THINGS
(#153) Genuine Nissan Pro-4X Oil Pan Skid Plate
(#153) Genuine Nissan Pro-4X Transfer Case Skid Plate
(#454) Painted OEM Radiator Skid Plate
(#463) P&P Front Recovery Points
(#996) Bond Mini D-Handle Shovel
(#1011) X-Bull Recovery Boards
(#1075) Genuine Nissan Pro-4X Fuel Tank Skid Plate
(#1081) 4-Way Air-Up/Down Equalizer
(#1133) Midland MXT-275 GMRS Radio

LIGHTING RELATED
(#018 Phillips White Vision LED Reverse Bulbs
(#018) UtiliTrack Bed LED Lights
(#066) LED Footwell and Under-Seat Display Lights
(#455 / #456 / #553) Custom External Reservoir LED Accent Lamps
(#933) Remote Timed Bed LED Light Switches
(#1188) LED Rear Door Step Lights
(#1205) Akkon LED Projector DRL Headlights
(#1215) Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro Frontier Fog Lamp Kit
(#1271) Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro Off-Road Lamps
(#1274) Diode Dynamics Interior LED Conversion Kit

ENGINE AREA / UNDER HOOD STUFF
(#006) Stant Locking Gas Cap
(#105) Mitsuba SH-1/SL-1 Truck Horns
(#122) Engine Block Ground Replacement Cable
(#496) Off-Road Gorilla Hood Strut Kit
(#1122 / #1126 / #1130 / #1131) Under-Hood Wiring Revisions
(#1130) InstallGear 200amp ANL Fuse Holder
(#1130) 2-AWG Auxilliary Power Cables
(#1130) EFX 4-Way Power Distribution Block
(#1131) Deutsch DT Series Custom Connectors
(#1220) Auxbeam AR-800 Bluetooth Switch Panel
(#1266) Interstate MTX-35 AGM Battery

TRIMMING FOR TIRE CLEARANCE POSTS
(#152) Trimming Fenders For Tire Clearance (Part 1)
(#169) Trimming the Front Lip For Tire Clearance (Part 2)
(#171) Trimming the Fender Liners For Tire Clearance (Part 3)
(#177) Trimming the Splash Guards For Tire Clearance (Part 4)

CUSTOM MODS & MISC INSTALLS
(#014) Custom Power Tailgate Lock Mod
(#454) Painted OEM Radiator Skid Plate
(#455 / #456) Custom External Mounts for King Reservoirs
(#634) System Refresh, Cable Management (Day 1)
(#641) System Refresh, Upholstered A/V Panels (Day 2)
(#642) System Refresh, New Rear Fill Amplifier (Day 3)
(#643) System Refresh, Bass Controller + Voltmeter (Day 4)
(#644) System Refresh, Reinstalling Everything (Day 5)
(#696) Custom Speaker Pod Fabrication (Part 1)
(#701) Custom Tweeter Pod Finishing and Install (Part 2)
(#847) Custom Mounted JL TWK-88 Control Knob and LED
(#940) Custom Rear Seat USB Charging Ports
(#1029) Air Comp Project, Part 1: Viair Hard Case Mod
(#1105) Air Comp Project, Part 2: Air By Numbers
(#1130) Blue Sea Interior Fuse Panel
(#1136) Custom GMRS Radio Plug
(#1146) Custom Nagoya GMRS Antenna Install
(#1210) Self Control: OEM-style DRL Switch

BUILD THREAD HOW-TO’S
(#013) How-To Relocate the Trailer Plug
(#018) How-To Delete the Trailer Plug Bracket
(#067) How-To Do the Rear Axle Vent / Diff Breather Mod
(#072) How-To Swap to Navara Emblems
(#173) How-To Install or Swap Fog Lamps
(#328) How-To Swap to a Genuine Nissan Rogue Key
(#328) How-To Program Your New Rogue/Switchblade Key Remote
(#411) How-To Swap to a Nissan "Switchblade" Flip Key
(#536) How-To Install the EZ-Down Tailgate Damper Kit
(#565) How-To Program an OEM Nissan Tire Pressure Sensor (TPMS)
(#750) How-To Aim Your Frontier Headlamps the Correct Way
(#937) How-To Install OEM Nissan Rope Hooks (w/added Security)
(#1195) How-To: Front Seat Cushion Lift Mod
(#1274) How-To: Diode Dynamics Interior LED Conversion Kit

TRIPS AND OTHER STUFF
(#004) The First Day Home
(#021) Mountain Biking at M-Trail, Riverside, CA
(#068) Getting Lost in Cleghorn Ridge, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#073) Mountain Biking at Snow Summit, Big Bear, CA
(#079) Camping in Cleveland National Forest, CA
(#088) Azusa Canyon OHV Exploring, San Gabriel Canyon, CA
(#108) Return to Cleghorn Ridge, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#123) Mountain Biking at Marshall Canyon, La Verne, CA
(#140) Some Photos Before the Rain at Pomona, CA
(#162) Lytle Creek Afternoon Trail Run, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#207) Return to Azusa OHV with New Suspension, San Gabriel Canyon, CA
(#235) King Shocks Suspension Down Travel Notes
(#263) Silverwood Trail Run, San Bernardino, CA
(#797) My Truck on the White Rhino Fabrication Website
(#936) Update: Rear Axle Vent Mod, 5 Years Later (?)
(#1063) Sort-of Normal: First Trail Run in 2021, San Bernardino, CA

OTHER THINGS THAT TOOK SOME TRUCK MONEY
(#375) 2016 Commencal Meta V4 Mountain Bike
(#520) 2018 Commencal Supreme SX
(#861) 2019 Commencal Meta Power 29

EOL / ARCHIVED
(#006) OEM Nissan Wheel Lock Set
(#006) OEM Genuine Nissan Side Step Rails
(#008) Rocky Mounts Clutch SD Bike Mounts
(#011) How-To: Custom Center Dash Phone Holder
(#012) Audio Control Epicenter Processor
(#012) JL Audio XD300/1v2 Mono Amplifier
(#012) Kicker C10 Subwoofers x2
(#012) ASC Prefab Dual Subwoofer Enclosure
(#018) LED Interior Bulbs
(#018) Phillips Crystal Vision Headlamp Bulbs
(#018) Phillips Crystal Vision Fog Lamp Bulbs
(#021) Pipeline Rail Rack Bike Holder
(#022) Alpine RUX Control Knob
(#042) Image Dynamics CXS v.2 6.5” Components
(#042) Custom Upper Dash Speaker Mounts
(#043) Kenwood Excelon DNX-892 Navigation Head Unit
(#043) Amazon Fire TV
(#043) Forward Facing Camera
(#061) MiniDSP DSP 2-Channel Processor
(#061) MiniDC Regulated Power Supply
(#078) Midland 75-822 In-Cabin/Handheld CB Radio
(#080) Firestik NGP Custom OEM Location Install
(#095) Fabricated Custom Mounting Base for Firestik NGP CB Antenna
(#109) Blue Sea Systems 6-Circuit ST-Blade Fuse Block
(#113) OEM Genuine Nissan Xterra "Off-Road Lamps" Switch
(#114) White Rhino Fabrication Light Bar
(#118) PIAA 520 ATP 6” Off-Road Lamps
(#131) BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 Tires
(#141) Quickie Firestik Antenna Shrink Mod
(#173) Morimoto XB Type-S LED Projector Fog Lamps
(#173) Lamin-X Yellow Fog Lamp Overlays
(#185) Total Chaos Upper Control Arms
(#241) Remote HDMI+USB Connector
(#303) White Knuckle Off-Road DOM Steel Rock Sliders
(#305) Hi-Tech Industries GT-5000 Traction Tape
(#425) Pyle PLCM38FRV "Shuttle Camera"
(#426) PIAA 520 ATP Custom Wire Wrap
(#431) Rigid Industries D-Series LED Driving Lamps
(#485) Kenwood KAC-M3004 2-Channel Amplifier
(#595) Interstate 640 CCA Battery
(#643) CT Sounds Universal Bass Knob w/Voltmeter
(#747) Katana LED Headlamp Bulb Upgrade
(#901) Hankook DynaPro AT-M (RF10) Tires
(#1018) Baofeng UV-5RTP FM Radio
(#1111) Custom iPad Pro + GMRS Radio Mount
(#1132) Auxbeam BA-80 8-Gang Control Panel
 
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#5 ·
265/75

It's about time...geez! Just kidding. Good start. Looking forward to the rest. :thumbup:
It's going to take longer than I thought because of the automerge, jeniorNV said it's about a 5 minute gap before it resets and lets me post consecutively.
 
#4 · (Edited)
(09.26.14) Exactly What I Was Looking For.

It took about 6 months after making the decision to change vehicles before I sold my 1995 Lexus SC300 at my asking price, and it finally happened in August of 2014. With the car gone, I pretty much knew what was next; After researching models, options, dealer stock in my area, and thoroughly debating between the SV and Pro-4X, I decided on the Nissan Frontier Crew Cab 4×4 SV with the Value Truck Package, which had a lot of stuff that was not standard on the Pro-4X (unlike the later model years) – plus the Pro-4X had a lot of stuff that I’d probably swap out someday (OEM Bilsteins, wheels, etc.)

Since it was year-end clearance time, the challenge was to find a truck on a dealer lot in Night Armor with a short bed and VTP. That’s exactly what I wanted, nothing more and nothing less. Lucky for me I found one in the exact spec I wanted about 30 minutes away at Metro Nissan in Montclair, CA. It took 3 visits all week and a lot of hard-nose negotiating to get the type of deal and payments I wanted, and they finally gave in after the third night of seeing me there.


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Website version: project:KEIRA
 
#6 · (Edited)
(09.27.14) Day One Mods – The First Weekend.
The day after I took the truck home I hit the road and headed to a local auto parts store to pick up some cleaning supplies, and I also bought a Stant Locking Gas Cap (part #10504); this was technically my first mod!

After that I went to a couple of local Nissan Dealerships (closer to me than where I bought the truck) and dropped some cash on a few genuine Nissan accessories that caught my eye in the catalog – originally I just wanted the OEM Nissan Splash Guards and OEM Nissan Wind Deflectors; the parts guy said he’d give me a deal on the OEM Nissan Side Step Rails ($150 flat) because they were just taking up space in the back, and he even offered to throw in a free set of McGuard Wheel Locks… so why not!



One day I went to the market to pick up some stuff, and I couldn’t help but constantly look in my rear view mirror the whole way home, so I decided I needed a tonneau cover. I looked at the tri-fold style at first, but I realized it would be a pain to have to remove it every time I wanted to load my mountain bike up for a ride, so I shopped around for the roll-up style. After looking through hundreds of different brands and models on all kinds of websites, I decided to go with the Truxedo LoPro QT because it had a very low profile to it, and it had a lot of great reviews online. Ordered it online, and just 2 days later I installed it (in about 1 hour).



UPDATE: McGuard Wheel Locks, Genuine Nissan Side Step Rails are EOL.
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Website version: project:KEIRA
 
#366 ·
The title sounds contradictory, but oh well – anyhow, the day after I took the truck home I hit the road and headed to a local auto parts store to pick up some cleaning supplies, and I also bought a Stant locking gas cap (part #10504); this was technically my first mod, heh. After that I went to a couple local Nissan Dealerships (closer to me than Montclair) and dropped some cash on a few genuine Nissan accessories that caught my eye in the catalog – originally I just wanted the mud guards and wind deflectors; the parts guy said he’d give me a deal on the side steps ($150 flat!) because they were just taking up space in the back, and he even offered to throw in a free set of wheel locks… so why not!


OEM mud guards, wind deflectors, side steps, and free wheel locks.


You know that feeling, buying something and installing it at night because you can’t wait.


First non-OEM “mod” gets a picture, even if it’s boring.

The next day I went to Costco to pick up some stuff, and I couldn’t help but constantly look in my rear view mirror the whole way home, so I decided I needed a tonneau cover. I looked at the tri-fold style at first, but I realized it would be a pain to have to remove it every time I wanted to load my mountain bike up for a ride, so I shopped around for the roll-up style. I went with the Truxedo LoPro QT because it had a very low profile to it, and it had a lot of great reviews online. Ordered it on Amazon Prime, 2 days later I installed it in about 1 hour. I’ve had it for over a year now and I’m happy to report that there are still zero signs of sagging, no weathering, and no color fading whatsoever – looks and works just as good as new.


The LoPro QT is an excellent tonneau cover, with a nice, tight fit.
Hm was this??

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
#7 · (Edited)
(10.02.14) Keeping an Eye on Things.

When I saw the UltraGauge EM-Plus in my brother’s Tacoma, I had to have one. Install was a snap – plug the cable into the OBD2 port under the dash, run the cable along the back of the knee panel, up along the side trim, and I stuck it on the dash with the vertical mount. It actually took me longer to get everything programmed to how I liked it. The gauges I normally have setup for daily driving are (clockwise in the photo): short trip miles driven (resets at key off), short trip MPG (resets at key off), average MPG (so I can compare across an entire tank of fuel), engine temp (I prefer a number over a vague needle), distance to empty, and gallons of fuel left (changed this to “miles traveled” later on). It’s a pretty useful little gadget – it doesn’t do ECU reprogramming or anything of that sort – but after using it for the first couple of weeks I realized how heavy my right foot was, and eventually changed my driving habits because of it. If you’re thinking of an OBD scan tool, I’d strongly suggest you consider the UltraGauge.

By the way, the 22.1 MPG shown was achieved during a long road trip back home.
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Website version: project:KEIRA
 
#8 · (Edited)
(10.03.14) For the Mountain Bike

Just in time for the weekend, I bought a pair of RockyMounts DriveShaft SD bike mounts. The Driveshaft SD was designed to bolt right into the UtiliTracks in the bed, and I particularly liked the fact that it can accept 9mm, 15mm RQ, and 20mm QR axles and has a built-in key lock. These things are pretty heavy and super solid; my mountain bike doesn’t budge or sway one bit while driving. I thought they were a little pricey at first, but they’ve been rock solid for over a year now.






UPDATE: RockyMounts DriveShaft SD mounts are EOL.
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Website version: project:KEIRA
 
#9 ·
Welcome to the fun and torture of documenting how much money you've spent and what you spent it on : )
And nice bike!
 
#10 ·
Oh I already know this feeling well - did the same thing for my SC300 on the Lexus forums a few years back. It's a vicious cycle. It hurts but we keep doing it haha
 
#11 · (Edited)
(10.18.14) Custom Phone Holder Mod.

I normally use Waze while I drive so I needed a way to hold my iPhone 6 Plus where I can see it. I have used the MacAlly Mcup in other vehicles with great results, but because of the position of the Frontier cupholders (back near the elbow) I had to come up with a solution. The idea: directly mount the Mcup onto the console bin at the top of the center console. For power I used a 2-meter USB extension cable and an Anker Lightning Cable. It had to be that long so I could run the extension from the OEM USB port under the center arm rest through the center console area and up behind the OEM radio. After mounting the Mcup assembly into the top bin, I had my iPhone front and center – making navigation use easily visible and accessible.

Used a Dremel to cut some small holes into the console bin.

Just enough for a Lightning cable to fit through.

Modified the base of the Mcup to use a ¼” bolt.

Tied a loose knot to limit the exposed cable length.

A regular fender washer provided a strong, sturdy mounting base.

Bolted together now; cable exit hole is barely noticeable.

USB extension cable from center armrest USB port.

How it looks completed. Phone can be clamped/released with one hand, and clamp rotates to any viewing angle.

UPDATE: Custom Phone Holder is EOL.
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Website version: project:KEIRA
 
#807 ·
I normally use Waze while I drive so I needed a way to hold my iPhone 6 Plus where I can see it. I have used the MacAlly Mcup in other vehicles with great results, but because of the position of the Frontier cupholders (back near the elbow) I had to come up with a solution. The idea: directly mount the Mcup onto the console bin at the top of the center console.

For power I used a 2-meter USB extension cable and an Anker Lightning cable. I ran the extension from the OEM USB port under the center arm rest through the center console area and up behind the OEM radio. Now I had my iPhone front and center, making navigation use easily visible and accessible. I had this setup for half a year before I eventually upgraded to an aftermarket in-dash head unit with navigation (more on this later).


Used a Dremel to cut some small holes into the console bin.


Just large enough to push a Lightning cable through.


Modified the base of the Mcup to use a ¼” bolt.


Tied a loose knot to limit the exposed cable length.


A regular fender washer provided a strong, sturdy mounting base.


Bolted together now; cable exit hole is barely noticeable.


USB extension cable from center armrest USB port.


How it looks completed. Phone can be clamped/released with one hand, and clamp rotates to any viewing angle.
How did you get the black piece of plastic (that you mounted the phone holder too) lifted up? I've never messed with vehicle dashes before.
BTW - thank you very much for the detailed write up and pictures! I'll be doing a few of them !
1st will be the trailer plug relocation.
 
#12 · (Edited)
(10.30.14) Let’s Add Some Bass
I barely lasted a month before deciding that the factory sound system needed more bass. First I needed some speakers, which I found online when I ordered a simple prefab subwoofer box that fit under the rear seats. The enclosure was a package deal that came preloaded with a pair of Kicker C10’s.





Now that I had a pair of subwoofers under my rear seats, I needed to add some power. Looking initially for something small and simple, I browsed the Crutchfield catalog and chose a JL Audio XD300/1v2 amplifier rated at 300wx1 @2-ohms. I liked the XD Series specifically because of its small dimensions due to being a Class-D amplifier… and I didn’t want to mount the amp behind the rear seats (well, there’s no real room there anyway), so I had to pick something that fits under the driver’s seat.

Knowing the audio signal would be limited by the factory head unit, I also installed an Audio Control Epicenter Bass Processor underneath the passenger seat to get some low frequencies back. I used a PAC Line Output Converter to connect the stock Nissan head unit to the Epicenter’s inputs. With the two Kickers, I had more bass than I wanted. However, at the same time, it just showed me how weak the factory's main speakers were. Eventually, I knew I’d upgrade the audio some more, but for the time being, this was fine.










UPDATE: Audio Control Epicenter Processor, JL Audio XD300/1v2 Mono Amplifier, and Kicker C10 Subwoofers are EOL.
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Website version: project:KEIRA
 
#13 · (Edited)
(11.05.14) How-To: Trailer Plug Relocation.



I never liked how the OEM trailer plug was on a bracket protruding down from the receiver, it literally looked tacked on! So I decided to relocate it.

TOOLS/PARTS USED
  1. Power Drill
  2. 2-1/4” (57mm) Hole Saw Bit
  3. 1/4” Drill Bit for Metal
  4. Dremel Multi-Tool with Grinding Bit
  5. Socket Wrench, 10mm
  6. Combination wrench, 10mm
  7. Center Punch
  8. Masking Tape (I prefer ScotchBlue)
  9. Ruler
  10. Sharpie Pen
  11. Paint Marker
  12. Flathead Screwdriver (optional)
  13. Round-Edge Metal File (optional)
  14. Shop-vac (optional)
The whole job takes less than 30 minutes. once I started cutting. This is an easy job, just make sure you have all the tools listed. I did not take photos of every single step, but the descriptions and the photos I do have should be easy to understand and follow.

STEP 1: From underneath the tailgate area, unplug the trailer plug harness from the trailer plug assembly. You can use the flat head screwdriver to help you here if it’s difficult to disconnect.

STEP 2: Using the 10mm socket and combination wrenches, unbolt the trailer plug from the bracket. Set the hardware aside for now.

STEP 3: Let’s work on the plug first. Using a Dremel with a grinding bit, carefully trim away all the little tabs and steps that surround the round portion of the plug. This will make it easier to install into the bumper since you won’t have to notch and trim the bumper hole.

STEP 4: Now on to the bumper. Using masking tape, mask off the area to the left of the license plate location from top edge to bottom edge. Use your ruler and Sharpie pen and make a dot that is centered top-to-bottom and left-to-right. For left-to-right, measure from the license plate frame up to where the bumper just starts to curve.

STEP 5: With your mark in place, take the center punch and punch a guide on the Sharpie mark. This is important as it will keep your holesaw bit from wandering when you start drilling/cutting.

STEP 6: Using a drill and the 2-1/4” (57mm) hole saw bit, SLOWLY begin cutting the hole. Take your time here, no need to rush the cut. When the drill bit is through the bumper and the hole cutting blade starts to make contact, make sure to hold the drill level with the bumper so that the hole cutting bit is flush with the bumper. Don’t push with force – let the hole saw do its thing.

STEP 7: Once the hole is cut, don’t remove the masking tape yet. Take the round-edge metal file and clean up the hole edges; if you don’t have a file, you could use the Dremel and grinding bit, but use a low speed and take your time.

STEP 8: With the hole cleaned up, insert the trailer plug into the hole, make sure it’s level, and mark the bolt holes with your Sharpie. Center punch the marks and then drill two 1/4” holes.

STEP 9: If all is well up to here, you can now remove the masking tape from the bumper. Use a paint marker to seal the bare metal edges of the holes you made to help combat rust.

STEP 10: Slide the trailer plug into the hole. It should be easy since the 2-1/4″ hole saw gives some extra room to get the trailer plug through with no hassles. Use the 10mm bolts to attach the plug to the bumper.

STEP 11: Plug the harness back into the rear of the trailer plug, and the relocation mod is complete!

To get rid of the original bracket, I chopped off as much as I can with a Sawzall, but then I had a rough edge along the back, and there was still the plate at the bottom that I couldn’t take off without a grinder. Of course, I can’t leave it like this, so first I used the Dremel to clean up the sharp edge and remove some paint from the surrounding areas and the plate welds. Next, I used some JB Weld Steelstik to blend in the edges of the plate and the cut edges into the shape of the receiver. Once that dried I used a Dremel, a file, and a sanding block to smooth out the shape before finishing it off with primer and matte black spray paint. Even if it’s a spot that most people might not even see, I still like doing a good job because I know I will see it.



And if you can’t see where the bracket used to be, here you go:


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Website version: project:KEIRA
 
#898 ·
How-To: Trailer Plug Relocation (11.05.14)
Quick question. There was a piece of plastic that I dremmeled off, it’s the piece right above where the tab is to lift open the socket cover. When I drilled it off there was a hole there. Do you happen to remember if that hole was there anyways? Is it a drain of some kind (even though the socket has the rubber gasket)? I ended up putting some JB weld on it to fill in the hole but then I came up with the thought that maybe it’s supposed to be there, because it looks like it might have been on yours too? Maybe I’m overthinking.
 
#14 · (Edited)
(11.08.14) Power Lock for the Tailgate.

You know when you get in your truck, drive off, and then pull over real quick just to check if you locked the tailgate? That happened to me a lot (this is my first time owning a truck), so I decided to install a Power Tailgate Lock. The lock would be wired into the cabin door locks, so that it would function just like how SUVs have the dual-press option (press unlock once = only driver door gets unlocked, press unlock twice = all other doors/trunk unlock). I ran a pair of wires from the tailgate area to the left-rear passenger door lock harness. That took the most time since I loomed and wrapped the wires up first and then ran them hidden along the frame rail. At the tailgate, I installed a waterproof connector that piggybacked on top of the OEM backup camera connector. In fact, installing the actual door lock actuator was the easiest part. The total installation took about 45 minutes, and the cost of all parts came out to about $15 total. Now I know that whenever I lock the doors, the tailgate will definitely be locked as well.


Added a harness with a waterproof connector in case I need to remove the tailgate.


Here’s the new harness using the same access points as the OEM backup camera harness.


Drilled a small hole in the locking mechanism to attach the actuator rod.


This was the easy part – mounting the actual door lock actuator. Took all but 5 minutes tops!

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Website version: project:KEIRA
 
#902 ·
Power Lock for the Tailgate (11.08.14)

You know when you get in your truck, drive off, and then pull over real quick just to check if you locked the tailgate? That happened to me a lot, so I decided to install a lock actuator and have the tailgate connected to the cabin door locks. I wanted it to function like how SUVs have the dual-press option (press unlock once = only driver door gets unlocked, press unlock twice = all other doors/trunk unlock) so I ran a par of wires from the tailgate area to the left-rear passenger door lock harness. That took the most time since I loomed and wrapped the wires up first, and then ran them hidden along the frame rail. At the tailgate I installed a waterproof connector that piggybacked on top of the OEM backup camera connector. In fact, installing the actual door lock actuator was the easiest part. Total install took about 45 minutes, and the cost of all parts came out to about $15 total. Now I know that whenever I lock the doors, the tailgate will definitely be locked as well.


Added a harness with a waterproof connector in case I need to remove the tailgate.


Here’s the new harness using the same access points as the OEM backup camera harness.


Drilled a small hole in the locking mechanism to attach the actuator rod.


This was the easy part – mounting the actual door lock actuator. Took all but 5 minutes tops.
That is bad ***...
 
#15 ·
Where'd you get the sub enclosure?
 
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#17 ·
Thank you sir!
 
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#18 · (Edited)
(11.09.14) Adding Some LEDs

Using the same wiring harness I ran for the Power Tailgate Lock Mod (it was a 4-wire harness) the other two wires were for the bed LED Light Strips. I ran an LED strip from end to end on the bottom edge of the left and right Utili-Tracks on the sides of the truck bed. The wiring for the LED strips ran behind each taillight before meeting in the center underneath. From here I connected the other end of the harness to the cargo lamp harness behind the rear seats. This made it so that the bed LEDs would go on whenever the cargo lamps were on – whether the trigger was unlocking the truck, or using the cargo lamp switch in the dash. This also ensured that I wouldn’t leave them on accidentally, as they would automatically turn off when the cargo lamps also turned off. Cost for this mod was about $15 for the LED strips from eBay.


I thought I had more pics of the bed LED install, but this is it until I can take a better one. The photo below is my map lights; I switched all of the interior bulbs to white LEDs (about $20).


Just to add this here since it’s about lighting, I swapped out the OEM headlamp and OEM foglamp bulbs to Phillips Crystal Vision headlamp bulbs. Also, I did eventually swap the back-up reverse lights (in the taillamp assembly) to a pair of Phillips White Vision 921 LEDs. I did not take any photos of this, so you’ll just have to believe me.

UPDATE: Phillips Crystal Vision headlamp bulbs, Phillips White Vision 921 LEDs are EOL.
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Website version: project:KEIRA
 
#21 · (Edited)
(11.21.14) Quick Load Bike Mount.

I came across Pipeline Racks, they made a bike holder that was faster than the RockyMounts in terms of load/unload, it’s basically a cradle that holds the front wheel of the bike. When I saw that they made a version that bolts directly to the UtiliTrack called a “Rail Rack”, I ordered one up and installed it the night before a ride on M-Trail in Riverside, CA. I kept the RockyMounts on the rail but moved them to either side of the centered Pipeline Rack, which ended up being perfect for when we needed to shuttle the bikes up to the top.


Installed the Pipeline Rack at night, you can also see another view of the UtiliTrack LEDs I installed previously.

I can carry 3 mountain bikes in the bed now. Mine is in the middle.

Photo taken after the ride back at home, tires are dirty – and another view of how the Pipeline Rack is installed.

UPDATE: Pipeline Rail Rack is EOL.
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This can also be seen at project:KEIRA
 
#345 ·
I came across Pipeline Racks, they made a bike holder that was faster than the RockyMounts in terms of load/unload, it’s basically a cradle that holds the front wheel of the bike. When I saw that they made a version that bolts directly to the UtiliTrack called a “Rail Rack”, I ordered one up and installed it the night before a ride on M-Trail in Riverside, CA. I kept the RockyMounts on the rail but moved them to either side of the centered Pipeline Rack, which ended up being perfect for when we needed to shuttle the bikes up to the top.


Installed the Pipeline Rack at night, you can also see another view of the UtiliTrack LEDs I installed previously.


I can carry 3 mountain bikes in the bed now. Mine is in the middle.


Nice photo taken by my friend of me and my bike overlooking Riverside.


Photo taken after the ride back at home, tires are dirty – and another view of how the Pipeline Rack is installed.
How are you liking this rack? do you have to do anything else to strap the bike down?
 
#22 · (Edited)
(02.07.15) Audio Upgrade – New Amplifier and Subwoofers

Two months into 2015, my brother showed up one day with his Tacoma and he had installed a full sound system in, consisting of JL Audio components, Alpine amp and an Alpine Type-R top-of-the-line subwoofer. He was pushing 250-watts into a single 10”, and I was surprised at how much bass he had compared to my low-end pair of Kicker C10s[/B]. Since I like my music on the road, at that moment I decided I was going to go “all-in” and upgrade my entire sound system.

First – the subwoofers; Out went the mediocre Kickers and in went a fresh pair of JL Audio 10TW1-4 subwoofers. The volume required by the new (and bigger, and heavier) JL’s were pretty close to the sub box internal dimensions, but I went ahead and added about 0.5-pounds of polyfill to increase the “volume” that the subs would see. With the subwoofers swapped out, I knew I needed an amp that would be able to give the subs more power.


New JL Audio subwoofers mounted in the subwoofer box. These subs are a lot more stout than the original Kickers.

With a fresh pair of subs just waiting to be fired up, I needed to replace the JL XD300 amplifier ]with something that had a lot more power. I decided to stay with a class-D because it still had to fit under the front seat, and since I didn’t want to run more than one amp cable from the battery to the interior I decided to go multi-channel for future upgrade purposes. I found what I was looking for in the Alpine PDX-V9 5-Channel Amplifier (side note: I had to remove the old amp cable because it was only 8-gauge, and the new amp needed 4-gauge). The amp is conservatively rated on the box at 100-watts x4 + 500-watts x1… but Alpine actually bench tests each PDX amp before packaging and places a “Verification Certificate” inside the box showing the actual output of that particular unit (more on this later.)


New Alpine amplifier mounted under the passenger seat, replacing the Audio Control Epicenter. Very compact but very powerful.


View of the amp how it sits with the passenger seat bolted down. This view is from the front passenger footwell.


View of the amp face and controls. It sits back far enough where it is behind the floor vent, out of harms way.

With the new amp, I had two control knobs for my system – one for the Audio Control Epicenter Processor and a new knob (Alpine RUX knob) for remote bass level control. After surveying the interior and imagining where I would like to reach the controls, I custom mounted the two knobs (and Epicenter LED indicator) in the lower center console area, to the left of the “4WD” knob. In this position I could easily reach the knobs while driving, and it blended in with the center console “look” because the two black knobs actually brought some symmetry opposite the two OEM 12v black receptacles on the right side of the lower console.


Alpine bass level control knob on top, Epicenter LED and processor level knob underneath.


My stereo system bass processing happens under my butt, technically.

Oh yeah – about the PDX-V9’s “Verification Certificate” – here it is. The actual output of my particular amp at 14.4v is 138-watts x4 @4-ohms for the main channels + 564-watts x1 @4-ohms for the subwoofers. That meant a significant boost on the low end compared to the old setup, plus now I have 4-channels of high power for the main speakers. The only bad part of this was that it basically kickstarted a 1 ½ month-long obsession of installing audio-related components every weekend until my audio upgrade project was complete.


Do the math… that’s over 1,000-watts (1,116-watts to be exact, woo hoo!).

So now I had A LOT more bass than I had imagined, and it’s great. Because of the way the subwoofer box vented the sound downward into the angled floorboard and then directly into the cabin (as opposed to not going through back seats like in a car with the sub box in the trunk) let me tell you – it’s really loud. So loud that things started to rattle everywhere – which meant the next step to my audio upgrade was sound dampening.

UPDATE: Audio Control Epicenter is EOL.
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The subwoofers can also be seen at project:KEIRA
The amplifier can also be seen at project:KEIRA
 
#23 ·
Great build here!

For some reason your pictures do not show on the autoguide app. They show fine on the mobile site and full site. Are they interlaced jpgs maybe?
 

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#25 ·
Great build here!
For some reason your pictures do not show on the autoguide app. They show fine on the mobile site and full site. Are they interlaced jpgs maybe?
Thanks! As for the pics not showing... maybe it's your app ::wink::

If your avatar was any indication, I would have guessed that you had named it, "Harley." Nice work on the build!
Thanks! The name was just by default "Keira" because I never actually sat down and said, "okay, what am I gonna name my new truck?" like it was a baby or something.

Harley. Sounds like a motorcycle. Wait... ::laugh::
Harleen. Hrm...
 
#26 · (Edited)
(02.15.15) Audio Upgrade – Sound Deadening Up Front.

With the Alpine PDX-V9 amplifier feeding over 550-watts to the pair of 10” JL Audio Subs, bass output was fantastic when I turned it up. Also awesome was how much metal and plastic was buzzing with every bass hit! I did the “knock test” on my brother’s truck – where you first knock on a stock door panel (and it sounds hollow with a high pitched “ding”) and then knock on a panel with sound damping installed (and it sounds solid with a low “thunk”) – and I understood immediately what Dynamat does. I ordered up two bulk pack boxes of Dynamat Xtreme to begin this portion of my audio upgrade.

First I took some baseline SPL readings for comparison later. To measure the sound levels I used a miniDSP Umik-1 calibrated microphone and Room EQ Wizard’s SPL meter function on my laptop. I had the mic positioned in the center of the vehicle, approx. 4 inches above the center armrest. The idle test was taken at a dead-end industrial street on the weekend to ensure that there was little chance of extra outside noise clouding my measurements. The 30 and 60-mph tests were done on a quiet stretch of road in the same area. Yes, I’m pretty sure there’s a more scientific way of doing this but I didn’t get all complicated with it since I only took measurements out of curiosity:

BASE MEASUREMENTS (C-weighted)
  • Idle = 49.7-db
  • 30mph = 59-db
  • 60mph = 72.7-db
So… back in the garage, it was time to begin the actual installation. After pulling out all four-door interior panels and the door weather barriers, I started cutting the Dynamat to shape. The rule of thumb is 30% minimum coverage, but I went for full coverage.


The cutting begins. Here’s I’m cutting the Dynamat in mirrored shapes to cover both sides.


Here’s the layout going inside the left-front door. The extra square at the bottom is to double up behind the speaker position.


Here’s the layout going inside the right-rear door.

Before beginning the install I used denatured alcohol and a shop towel to wipe down the inner and outer skins of the doors to promote good adhesion… and received a lot of little cuts and nicks on my knuckles. I then took each piece, positioned it inside the door (not fun), peeled the backing off, and then warmed up the Dynamat’s adhesive with a heat gun before using a rubber roller to press the Dynamat in place… that and my fingertips were close to getting burnt by the hot foil lining the Dynamat. For the tight spots inside the door that was too small or angular to get the roller in, I enlisted one of my tire tools from my bike kit – using the rounded ends to press down the edges of the Dynamat.


Here’s the Dynamat install finished on the left-front outer door skin.


Here’s the Dynamat install finished on the right-rear outer door skin.

After finishing the outer skins of all four doors, I turned to the inner skin. I also went for full coverage here to seal most of the door up, turning the entire door into an enclosure for the front speakers.


I used the OEM weather barrier to trace an identical shape for the outer skins (the interior side of the doors).


Here’s the right-front door with the second layer of Dynamat on the outer skin. Note the speaker wire I installed for future use.

After re-installing the OEM front speakers, weather liner, and door panels I went and rechecked the decibel numbers for comparison:

AFTER INSTALL – MEASUREMENT #2
  • Idle before = 49.7-db / after = 47.2-db (-2.5-db)
  • 30mph before = 59-db / after = 56.6-db (-2.4-db)
  • 60mph before = 72.7-db / after = 70.5-db (-2.2-db)
Not bad at all – dropped approx. 2.5db just by adding Dynamat to the doors! It took an afternoon to get it all done (I took my time) but I’m not done yet. Numbers aside, a few observations just with the Dynamite door install alone:

1. Much quieter inside with the engine off and the windows closed;
2. Doors close with a solid, lower sounding ‘thunk’ with no more hollow sound;
3. I don’t hear anything rattling in the doors with the sub turned up;
4. Midbass sounds different (better);
5. Wind noise at speed seems the same, but I think that’s because of the direction it comes from when driving – meaning all hitting the windshield/front part of the truck, not so much directly into the sides of the doors.

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This can also be seen at project:KEIRA
 
#28 ·
Couldn't tell you what 2.5-db is. I mean, it's not like going from say my truck (before Dynamat) into a Luxury SUV, but for sure there is a noticeable reduction in noise level and tone.

What I can tell you for sure is that:

1. Much quieter inside with the engine off and the windows closed
2. Doors close with a solid, lower sounding 'thunk' with no more hollow sound
3. I don't hear anything rattling in the doors with the sub turned up
4. Midbass sounds different (better)
5. Wind noise at speed seems the same, but I think that's because of the direction it comes from when driving - meaning all hitting the windshield/front part of the truck, not so much directly into the sides of the doors
 
#30 · (Edited)
if you're basic level mechanically inclined (as in you can use a drill and splice wires) then don't get the $90-ish kit, it's way too expensive.

Search Amazon.com for "Universal Car Power Door Lock Actuator 12-Volt Motor (2 Pack)" for about $9 (it's a little cheaper if you don't go Prime and can wait for delivery) and some regular hookup wire (about 50-ft. so you have extra, about $5 at a local auto parts store)... so under $20 total - provided you have the tools (drill with bits, wire stripper, heatshrink, soldering iron if you choose to solder).

All the parts you need to install come with the actuators: the bracket to mount the actuator, the screws to bolt to the tailgate, and the actuator rod to attach to the tailgate lock lever. The only time consuming part was getting under the truck to run the wires along the frame rail from the tailgate to the cabin, to connect to the door lock wires on the left-passenger side B-pillar (where the door lock harness can be found).

For install you basically splice 2 wires and drill a total of 3 holes (5 if you're like me)... 1 hole in the tailgate lock lever, and two (or 4) mounting holes for the bracket assembly that holds the actuator in place. the actuator doesn't have to be in a specific spot - it just has to be somewhere where it can push/pull the actuator rod. You really don't need any relays for this kind of install, it's just a low voltage, low amperage door lock actuator.
 
#32 ·
It's really easy. There was a different thread where some people were making it out to be some super complicated thing to do, or some super critical thing where they'd rather get "a kit" then piece it together. That's fine - do what you want to your truck... and sure - for some projects a pre-built or complete "kit" may make sense, but for this?

IMO this is like getting two pieces of bread from one container, a piece of cheese from another container, and some ham from a third container in the refrigerator. Put it together (toast the bread if you have it) and you got yourself a delicious ham and cheese sandwich for what probably amounts to about $1.50 in ingredients.

OR go to a restaurant and buy a "pre-built kit" sandwich for $9.99.
::wink::
 
#34 · (Edited)
(02.21.15) Audio Upgrade – Rear Wall Noise Reduction

With my audio system keeping me company, I drove around for a week and noticed that I was hearing some vibration at the rear of the cab, and traced it to the rear wall. With the new subwoofers the rear wall would vibrate like crazy – I could hear it better from outside the vehicle, the noise coming from the gap between the cab and the front bed wall. So, that meant continuing with the Dynamat Extreme installation the following weekend.

It was time to turn to the rear end and floor. Already aware of the road noise I could hear from the back wall, that was my first target. It took longer than I thought to get to the back wall since I had to remove the whole rear seat assembly first. With bare metal showing, I first thought that installing the Dynamat here would be so much easier because I didn’t have to reach into door assemblies; however the rear wall was not flat, but had a series of bumps and dips the entire width of the wall, making it an exercise in patience and a lot of roller usage. I also did small sections of the floor, underneath where the front and rear floor mats sit, just to change the floor “frequency” a little bit. The rear floor was easy since I already had the rear seats out, but the front floor meant peeling back the carpet from the foot well end so I didn’t have to pull the seats out again.


Rear seats and rear interior panels removed.


…and the “after install” pic, again going for full coverage.

Once again after re-installing the rear panels and rear seat, I went and rechecked the decibel numbers again at the exact same locations and at roughly the same time of day:

AFTER INSTALL – MEASUREMENT #3
  • Idle before = 49.7-db / after = 45.5-db (-4.2-db drop)
  • 30mph before = 59-db / after = 55.1-db (-3.9-db drop)
  • 60mph before = 72.7-db / after = 69.1-db (-3.6-db drop)
So with the Dynamat on most of the large vertical areas of metal in the cab area I cut down interior noise by 4.2-db at idle and an average of approximately 3.75-db when moving. Maybe one day I’ll tackle the roof for even more noise reduction, but 4.2-db quieter is definitely noticeable; I don’t have to turn the volume on the stereo up as much, and there’s less noise overall when driving. Speaking of the music, I started noticing the lack of clarity on the higher end, and at higher volumes I was lacking a lot of midbass punch. At this point I wanted more.

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This can also be seen at project:KEIRA
 
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