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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2013, 06:37 PM
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Man I really like that! But I don't think I could bring myself to cut up my tailgate. Took me two days to work up the courage to drill into my roof

I'm going to keep my eye on craigslist for a tailgate now!
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2013, 08:52 PM
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I know what you mean,"measure once, cut twice". I actually didn't measure...I just cut. And then grinded some, ground a little more, then filed.

Got the distribution block mounted and positive wire run to the battery. Used factory studs and a "custom" washer to mount it. lol


And I found a wonderful little suprise on the firewall too, a factory hole w/ nothing going through it near the master cylinder! I'm so relieved I don't have to drill another hole in my baby! Maybe this weekend I'll get the wiring finished up for those stupid tailgate lights. If it wasn't for fishing tomorow, I'd wrap it up once I wake up in the afternoon.

I'm thinking I'll yank that sway bar out too, unless somebody makes some quick disconnect end links for our trucks.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2013, 10:49 PM
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What!? That rocks! How big was the hole? A pic would be nice
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Goosedeath View Post
I'm thinking I'll yank that sway bar out too
Do it. You'll like it.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2013, 03:18 AM
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^2nd, and I think I know at least one more that would 3rd
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeniorNV View Post
Do it. You'll like it.
I need to work up the motivation to do so... Does the forward skid plate/stone shield need to cone off to get access to the sway bar? Quick glances here and there leads me to think it needs to come off first.


There's the hole. Good spot to, at least for me.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2013, 02:07 PM
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Does the forward skid plate/stone shield need to cone off to get access to the sway bar? Quick glances here and there leads me to think it needs to come off first.
It's easiest to do it that way.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2013, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goosedeath View Post
I need to work up the motivation to do so... Does the forward skid plate/stone shield need to cone off to get access to the sway bar? Quick glances here and there leads me to think it needs to come off first.
You can get to the bolts with the skid on, but it would be a pain to try and fish the bar out of there because it is so heavy.

It should be four 10mm bolts on the skid, (maybe 12mm? sorry, I replaced mine a long time ago) and four 10mm/#2 Phillips head for the plastic fascia. I'm not sure if you have to remove the lower valance first?
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:43 PM
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And wired up! So Happy! No electrical fires either! Hehe!
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeniorNV View Post
Do it. You'll like it.
OK, done! Sway bar removed. Initial impressions, the alley behind my house is probably rougher than most terrain I've been over, and it felt better. I could tell w/out a doubt which side of the suspension was flexing(if I had my eyes closed) , instead of both sides moving together.

Feels a bit softer and smoother.

Thanks for the encouragement JuniorNV! It was so simple I should have done this a long time ago!

Next up, more lights, by-passing the factory e-locker switch and maybe a Lokka upfront..

Oh and my first aid kit..


Lol. Things will have to get really bad to use this first aid kit.
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Last edited by Goosedeath; 01-29-2013 at 07:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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