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Fireman Spock's 2016 SV CC/LB build "Blue"

30K views 93 replies 17 participants last post by  Jaybird33081 
#1 · (Edited)
So i've decided to consolidate my build threads into one thread just to keep things organized. I've seen a few of you guys name your builds, and I've been wanting to do the same, but wasn't able to settle on an appropriate name. Suddenly, it came to me... BLUE. My reasoning here is that overall, I'm putting a Jurassic Park/World feel to a lot of what I do to her. JP is my favorite movie of all time, and I did enjoy the sequels to varying degrees. And considering the body color -Arctic Blue Metallic- the name just fits. My previous threads will have links in here so you can look them up, but I wont be posting anything new in them, just in here.

I'll do my best to give credit where credit is due for the inspiration/advice for what I do. If I forget for whatever reason, let me know and I'll make sure to include it. For example, the format for this thread was inspired by raine


2016 Frontier CC/LB SV/VTP 4.0L V6 2wd

List of exterior mods:
Steelcraft 54090 grille guard: post #03
Steelcraft 34110 tail light guards: post #03
Tyger Auto TG-AM2N20158 Side Step Rails
OEM roof rack: post # 04
Auxbeam X-Series LED light bars: 2x 12", front grille spot lights: post #32
1x 32" front grille flood lights: post #32
1x32" roof spot lights: post #60
Light bars Wiring completed.
13" inch offroad antenna replacing factory antenna.
Standard anchor points added to cargo bed. Post #43
Trailer outlet relocated to bumper Post #68

List of interior mods:
Integrated garage door opener: post #05, and #28
12v dash outlet replaced with 2xUSB 2.1A outlet. Post #41, #42
12v outlet and 2xUSB 2.1A outlet mounted on the back of the center console. Post #35, #36
5x Toggle switch panel added to overhead console to control Light bars. Post #44


Planned features
(subject to change)
Custom seat covers.
Black rear bumper.
Flush mount LED lights on rear bumper.
Titan bed rails.
 
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#5 · (Edited)
Integrated garage door opener mod. Credit goes to the following post in this thread: http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/where-mount-additional-switches-accessories-260562/
2015 Pro-4X (same package) here... I was able to find a couple places that worked well for additional switches.

My internal and external lighting are on the overhead console. I was able to get a button left of the Bluetooth mic for my garage door and five switches to the right for lights and such.

This one was fairly straightforward. This was to be mounted on the overhead console next to the Bluetooth mic. I opened up the remote and pulled out the board. I picked up some 2-pin connectors to use for this project.



After identifying the proper terminals, I used a soldering iron to attach the plug. Not my cleanest work, but given the sensitivity of the components, I didn't want to push it.


Using a dremel, I cut a hole in the top of the casing to run the wire out. I used some Velcro dots to secure the remote to the inside of the panel.


Next I'll post a pic of a small mistake I made which will cost me about $8 to learn my lesson.


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#6 ·
Fireman Spock's 2016 SV CC/LB build "Blue"

What should have been the easy part of this mod bit me. Rule of thumb: measure TWICE, cut ONCE. I didn't follow that rule. Because of that, I was hit by another rule: two objects cannot occupy the same point in space at the same time. The space refers to the space behind that little panel.
The two objects are:
1-Bluetooth mic.
2-Back of the push button.

I had to recut the hole, and cutout a piece of plastic to hold it in now. Checked with the local dealership, will take 5 days and just under $8 for a replacement panel. Lesson learned.



The good news is, the system works. So, I'll give myself a 9/10 on execution.
 
#11 ·
What should have been the easy part of this mod bit me. Rule of thumb: measure TWICE, cut ONCE. I didn't follow that rule. Because of that, I was hit by another rule: two objects cannot occupy the same point in space at the same time. The space refers to the space behind that little panel.
The two objects are:
1-Bluetooth mic.
2-Back of the push button.

I had to recut the hole, and cutout a piece of plastic to hold it in now. Checked with the local dealership, will take 5 days and just under $8 for a replacement panel. Lesson learned.



The good news is, the system works. So, I'll give myself a 9/10 on execution.
BTW what was the part number

I am looking to do this but I want a backup plate to rely on if I screw thing up
 
#8 ·
That was definitely an idea I toyed with. However if for whatever reason I ever needed to have a rental vehicle, if Blue -god forbid- ends up in the shop, I'd like to be able to take the clicker with me. The 2-pin connector allows it to be unplugged easily.


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#24 ·
That was definitely an idea I toyed with. However if for whatever reason I ever needed to have a rental vehicle, if Blue -god forbid- ends up in the shop, I'd like to be able to take the clicker with me. The 2-pin connector allows it to be unplugged easily.
Or you could buy an extra clicker and leave it at home for emergency purposes only, hard-wire this one in the ceiling console and never have to worry about replacing the battery or having to pry that panel out (which it isn't meant to do) anytime you need access to the clicker

I simply bought a small garage door opener about the size of an egg but much flatter, and velcroed it to the inside of the overhead sunglass holder; still plenty of room for glasses.
Mine is like this, a small piece of Velcro and it sits dead center in the sunglass holder. Fits just fine along side my actual sunglasses and my Starbucks card.

Eventually I want to do this but with a Homelink unit so it looks factory
 
#9 ·
Wow all those mods look great....
Any guy that can drill holes on the roof of his pretty much brand new pick-up is OK in my book !
LOL
 
#10 · (Edited)
I wanna do the clicker mod too, I was looking at my truck today and wished I had the arrangement my old Silverado had
it had a universal 3 button click built in and was not battery powered
I am gonna try to run power to it
and do this mod
 
#20 ·
When I did my original Door Opener modification, I was able to cut a trace (the positive power) on the opener circuit board and insert an LM7809 three terminal regulator. It essentially drops the trucks 12v down to 9v to match the battery voltage for the opener. I then jumpered the push button on the opener so it was on all the time.

To 'operate' the opener, I just apply 12v from my push button near the bluetooth mic. It makes it easier if you want to mount the opener somewhere other than the overhead console. Added benefit is not having to change 9v batteries.

I looked into replacing the Homelink mirror, but the one with Compass, Temp, and Remote Control was near $300... The mod cost me $30 for a remote off ebay and a $3 switch from Radio Shack.
 
#21 ·
Washer Mod:

You know, you could plastidip, powdercoat or anodize that washer.
 
#23 · (Edited)
You know, you could plastidip, powdercoat or anodize that washer.
I thought of doing that, maybe in black, but I found a vendor on eBay selling used overhead consoles. Ill be able to get the replacement panel i need, plus have a spare console I can fool around with in preparation for the day I install the light bars since the switches are going in that console. Ive had 2 pairs of sunglasses break randomly, and I think they might be cracking because of the heat in the compartment up top. So I might look at making a modification to that compartment to put switches there. But thats just an idea, not set in stone yet.
 
#28 ·
So the replacement panel came in, and considering the price was almost 10x what the dealer led me to believe, this time I measured 10x before cutting once.

Used a plastic spacer that was 1/16 of an inch wider than the actual switch, and after being satisfied that it would do the trick, I took the plunge. In the end, looks clean like it should have in the first place. I also have a replacement console I can fool around with, or if someone needs it maybe to replace their map lights or sunglasses compartment, we can work out a deal.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Lol, I just tried it and it worked thanks easier than it was to remove the one from my Silverado that was a pain in the butt with all the screws


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Now I am just waiting on my metro harness so I can put in my new stereo I hope


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#32 · (Edited)
Finally got the LED light bars I was looking at. Ive recently seen some people around town with these on their jeeps, and they all had good things to say about them. Got them on Amazon, they're Auxbeam X-Series light bars.

There was a specific look I wanted to go for. Some people said this layout looks weird, including my wife. But all in all, I'm happy with the look. It's exactly what I was going for.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Bumper Automotive exterior


The bars came with the wiring harnesses included, which I will adapt into an aftermarket fuse/relay box I picked up. I will be putting those in within the next week or two depending on how my schedule goes. I'll be including more pics of that when I do the full build. I still haven't made a final decision about the control panel for them all. Still debating between two different looks...
 
#35 ·
Extra outlets.

One of the things I liked about my old 02 KC, is that it had plenty of outlets considering it wasn't made to carry many people too comfortably. My '16 has quite a few plugs, but none facing the back seat for passengers to use. So I searched online and found one that I could splice into the existing wiring that leads to the 12v plug in the center console.

First step is gaining access to the wiring, by removing the 3 screws that hold the console lid on. Once those screws are out, the rear panel just pops off.
Metal


Product Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part Machine

Once you get in there, you'll see the plug that leads to the 12v outlet. I removed one of the outlets from the dashboard, and used it with a 1-3 harness I found on Amazon. That way, I would have the use of the fuse that you normally have in one of those plugs. I'll be replacing the dash outlet with a USB outlet in a few days. I was able to use the harness to splice into the existing 12v plug, and the additional 2 went to a 12v and a USB panel.
Vehicle door Bumper Trunk Automotive exterior Automotive lighting


Wire Electrical wiring Electronics Cable Technology

Once they were all attached, and the outlets mounted to the back panel of the console, just pop it back in and screw in the top again. Based on previous blunders with other mods, (GDO) I measured this quite a bit before cutting. I also tested the wiring to the different outlets before ever cutting into the panel to instal the outlets. Only after I had confirmed they all work, did I cut. The Rear outlets now have a 12v outlet, and a USB adaptor with 2x 2.1A outlets.
 
#37 ·
nice job. That mod is one of those "I want to do it" things that I haven't gotten around to yet.

Quick question - not sure what you meant when you said you used one of the 12v outlets from the dash? Did you not have a 12v inside the armrest console already?
 
#38 ·
Taking a road trip to the beach for memorial day with some friends. Figured the extra outlets would come in handy.

As far as the 12v from the dash, I wasn't as clear as I could have been. What I did was get a wiring harness from Amazon to use.
Electronic device Wire Cable Technology Microphone

I cut out the 3 female ends of the setup, and spliced some female spade connectors in their place. The male end of the harness has a fuse inside, which I kept as a redundancy. For that to work, I pulled the 12v plug out of the dash to connect directly to the existing wiring. The 12v male plug for the new harness connected into that, and of the 3 ends left, 2 went to the new panel, and the 3rd one went to the existing 12v outlet that was kept in the console. Another reason for that, is that I didn't have male spade connectors in the small size needed to plug into the existing wiring, but I did have small enough female connectors to connect to the back end of the 12v plug.
Wire Trunk Technology Electrical wiring Auto part

You can see the original green and black wires going into the 12v plug, which is wrapped in red electrical tape. Then it splits into 3, going into the 2 new outlets, and into the existing 12v outlet that was in the center console.

Hope that clears it up.
 
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