Just thought I'd make a build thread to stay on the ball.
Here's some background and mods for anyone interested.
Bought this truck for $200 not running so I used the money that I saved to go over everything, runs great now bone dry with no leaks. It's my daily driver with 220k but when I rebuilt the top end I found that the cylinders still have their factory crosshatch. Perfect candidate for boost!
01 v6 2wd crew cab, synthetic Amsoil in everything
DT long tube headers(wrapped), 2.5 inch full exhaust no cats back to a vibrant ultra quiet resonator and flowmaster big block 70 series (I'll be chopping it up just where the y pipe ends and the two pipes merge for a mid mount turbo with a remote oiling system)
Volant cold air intake (which I'll be getting rid of when I go forced induction)
JWT S2 cams and springs and a complete top end rebuild with OEM parts
Did the clutch (luk), flywheel, release bearing and rear seal while I was in there(was leaking)
Also did all u joints, trans and rear end seals, carrier bearing while I was in there
2 inch spacers all around for stance on OEM wheels with 265/70/16 Yokohama geolandars
Poly bushings front to rear including leaf spring bushings
Bilstein shocks all around (stock ones were toast), sway away torsion bars and leveled out the front with just low profile bumpstops. The front is higher than the rear but I like the stace
Replaced entire 3rd brake light with a modified led assembly
Replaced rear lights with eBay chrome housings with all led bulbs, rewired the 3157 sockets for dual filament so I have 4 bulbs (2 per side) always on with driving lights, the one set gets brighter with turn signals... Then the others get brighter with brakes
Replaced front headlight assemblies with eBay chrome projector housings and running a set of 10000k HID's on 55watt ballasts for low beams, another set of 10000k HID's on 55watt ballasts for high beams, rewired turn signals for switchback led.. fogs and switchbacks are always on with driving lights.
Put in a diode so that my low beams stay on when I switch to highs instead of alternating
Foglight projectors with 3000k hid 55watt ballasts
When I had the heads off for the cams I painted the engine bay and all the parts blue and silver
Also painted my entire undercarriage hammerite black
Running a walbro 255 in tank pump
Gauges - oil pressure, wideband o2, boost (for my next upcoming project, t3/t4 hybrid mid mount turbo with fuel and ignition controlled by AEM FI/C)
Since i want to keep my expensive headers I'm fabricating a remote oil system - Oil feed coming from a 2 quart aluminum reservoir pressured by a turbowerx exa pump, gravity drained back into reservoir mounted lower than the turbo
I have all the parts just waiting for the time (have exhaust piping, intercooler piping, wastegate, bov, flanges, etc)
The only things left until I either total the truck or blow the motor are the turbo and some bodywork. If the fi/c can give me a nice and rich AFR under boost and work my timing properly then I'll tackle the bodywork. I'm not interested I'm going the megasquirt standalone route unless I absolutely have to but I have heard good things about the fi/c
I tried a apexi safc 2 to play with AFR but the OBD2 is too smart to be fooled with that piggyback. The only time you can alter AFR with it is when you go into open loop WOT, other than that the ECU just immediately corrects it. Plus it can't manipulate ignition timing. So I need to sell that
I think with just the stock MAF the fi/c should be good, I plan on running 10psi max
I'll be running the MAF pre turbo, no intercooler (should be cool enough through all that mid mount piping)
If I get high IAT I'll throw an intercooler in there, but I doubt it
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Here's some background and mods for anyone interested.
Bought this truck for $200 not running so I used the money that I saved to go over everything, runs great now bone dry with no leaks. It's my daily driver with 220k but when I rebuilt the top end I found that the cylinders still have their factory crosshatch. Perfect candidate for boost!
01 v6 2wd crew cab, synthetic Amsoil in everything
DT long tube headers(wrapped), 2.5 inch full exhaust no cats back to a vibrant ultra quiet resonator and flowmaster big block 70 series (I'll be chopping it up just where the y pipe ends and the two pipes merge for a mid mount turbo with a remote oiling system)
Volant cold air intake (which I'll be getting rid of when I go forced induction)
JWT S2 cams and springs and a complete top end rebuild with OEM parts
Did the clutch (luk), flywheel, release bearing and rear seal while I was in there(was leaking)
Also did all u joints, trans and rear end seals, carrier bearing while I was in there
2 inch spacers all around for stance on OEM wheels with 265/70/16 Yokohama geolandars
Poly bushings front to rear including leaf spring bushings
Bilstein shocks all around (stock ones were toast), sway away torsion bars and leveled out the front with just low profile bumpstops. The front is higher than the rear but I like the stace
Replaced entire 3rd brake light with a modified led assembly
Replaced rear lights with eBay chrome housings with all led bulbs, rewired the 3157 sockets for dual filament so I have 4 bulbs (2 per side) always on with driving lights, the one set gets brighter with turn signals... Then the others get brighter with brakes
Replaced front headlight assemblies with eBay chrome projector housings and running a set of 10000k HID's on 55watt ballasts for low beams, another set of 10000k HID's on 55watt ballasts for high beams, rewired turn signals for switchback led.. fogs and switchbacks are always on with driving lights.
Put in a diode so that my low beams stay on when I switch to highs instead of alternating
Foglight projectors with 3000k hid 55watt ballasts
When I had the heads off for the cams I painted the engine bay and all the parts blue and silver
Also painted my entire undercarriage hammerite black
Running a walbro 255 in tank pump
Gauges - oil pressure, wideband o2, boost (for my next upcoming project, t3/t4 hybrid mid mount turbo with fuel and ignition controlled by AEM FI/C)
Since i want to keep my expensive headers I'm fabricating a remote oil system - Oil feed coming from a 2 quart aluminum reservoir pressured by a turbowerx exa pump, gravity drained back into reservoir mounted lower than the turbo
I have all the parts just waiting for the time (have exhaust piping, intercooler piping, wastegate, bov, flanges, etc)
The only things left until I either total the truck or blow the motor are the turbo and some bodywork. If the fi/c can give me a nice and rich AFR under boost and work my timing properly then I'll tackle the bodywork. I'm not interested I'm going the megasquirt standalone route unless I absolutely have to but I have heard good things about the fi/c
I tried a apexi safc 2 to play with AFR but the OBD2 is too smart to be fooled with that piggyback. The only time you can alter AFR with it is when you go into open loop WOT, other than that the ECU just immediately corrects it. Plus it can't manipulate ignition timing. So I need to sell that
I think with just the stock MAF the fi/c should be good, I plan on running 10psi max
I'll be running the MAF pre turbo, no intercooler (should be cool enough through all that mid mount piping)
If I get high IAT I'll throw an intercooler in there, but I doubt it
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk