suspension/ driveline
front
Rugged Rocks SAS
Diamond D60/ H233B center
14" 2.5 Sway-a-way coilovers with remote
Diamond Dana 60 chromoly shafts splined for the H233B
Reid knuckles, Reid C's
artec Hysteer arms
solid industries hubs and ends
yukon hardcore locking hubs
front and rear Locked with ARB, and nissan 5.57 gears
J reel driveshaft front driveshaft
rear
Alcan leafs
with 10" 2.0 King with remotes
Exterior:
Monsterliner bed
tool box
35% tint on front windows
PIAA 510 off road Driving lights
PIAA 520 off road Driving lights
Aurora 20" LED light bar
Wilson 1000 CB whip
Interior:
Kenwood Excelon HU
Alpine 6 1/2 SPS series speakers in the front doors
powered by a polk PA330 amp
Kenwood 6x9 speakers powered by another PA 330 amp
Cobra 29 LX CB Radio
2 Kicker 10" Comp R powered by a dxa1000 kicker amp in a custom box
ARB CKMTA12 full duty compressor for airing up and running the lockers
Armor:
RPN off road (local jeep guys) rear bumper
RLC welding and Fab front bumper
shrockworks rock sliders
Performance:
have a built engine VG33E, JWT S1 cams, port and polished, balanced, bored, will go in at next timing belt interval at 210,000 miles.
DT Headers, into a complete custom exhaust from header all the way out. one magna flow cat per bank, and into a dual in /single out magna flow muffler. all 2.5" pipe
Dual electric fan conversion, Flex A Lite 412
K&N drop in filter
to come in the near future:
Fiberglass front fenders, Rugged rocks hi output alternator, winch ,and Hydro assist.
Sucks. They probably didn't clean the heads properly when removing that old HG. VG33 head gaskets suck when it comes to removal and surface prep. If I rebuild again (in 70K miles) I'm shopping for an MLS head gasket instead of the ones we have now.
MLS head gasket? I dropped the truck off at the shop the yesterday. i literally do not have time to mess with it. i wouldn't mind doing it if i had more time. but I'm a full time college student and a full time aviation A&P tech. so i literally have only 6 hours a week to work on stuff total. if i had done it in the past and was more comfortable doing it i would do it myself then get the heads machined and throw it back on. I'm have the shop go through the lifters valve guides etc.... while they have it apart. since the company that rebuilt it did a half ask job.
update on the engine build. have the whole engine torn down. i have JWT s1 cams currently on the way to my front door. doing some research it seams its the better way to go then getting vg30 cams. which are also none existent where i am located.
machine shop is going to do the following...
*hot tank
*clean up all mating surfaces
*mic the crank, polish the crank
*completely balance the crank, fly wheel, and front pulley all together
*do a bowl job on the heads. which him personally working on the VG engine has found it gets more gains then doing a port and polish job, shown with flow bench results.
*i will port and polish the heads, they will clean up and do the fine tuning of the port and polish using the flow bench
* bore .20 over and has ordered a equivalent of the Sealed Power pistons.
* and will install the Jim wolf technologies cams in the heads.
they offered todo a lot of the head work for a very reasonable price since i work with a good buddy of his. so they offered to dissemble and go through the heads for me.
soon to come to the truck. full exhaust manifolds back. no shop around here will do any work on my truck if they see that i have the headers on the truck since it is removing two of the cats.
i will have the muffler shop use two high flow cats, then crossover into a dual in muffler. still talking to the shop to see whats going to give the best flowing exhaust without loud drones.
Hope it all works well for you. That's a grip of work and money but it will be worth it in the end. I had just reached critical mass with my truck so she had to go. $26K for 395 reliable horses under the hood is money well-spent for me at this point.
i never have had really any pictures on this thread so ill give some pictures for before and after. i can't find pictures of when it was bone stock right now ill get them up one day.
so heres a few pics.
what it look like with suspension lift, stock wheels, and 31x10.5's
some wheeling pics
then custom bumper from the jeep guys
then came new wheels
then came BL
and what i do for a living
thanks its a work in progress! plan to do SAS when these tires are bad. haven't decided if ill do a 3 link or leaf springs. probably will be leaf spring just for the price.
gonna do a front bumper, and sliders next.
after the engine I'm building is done being built.
heres some more pics of the engine build disassembly and taken to the machine shop
One day I'd love to get that deep into my engine. I use to do all my engine work when I raced ATVs and would love to do all that to my truck, cams, pistons, rods, porting, injectors, all the fun stuff!
And budget-wise, figure your average rebuild costs $5-600 if you're doing all of the assembly yourself and simply rely on the machine shop for boring/honing, decking and dipping.
I can't wait to see this engine build done and to hear what your impressions of the whole engine build are. Also is your truck an automatic or a manual? And what will you be tuning the truck with?
its a automatic. JWT said the S2 cam would not work well in a automatic unless you do a custom torque converter. i don't know yet what I'm going to use to tune the truck. i talked to JWT and they actually specifically told me that even with all the work I'm doing that the stock ECU will handle everything fine. JWT does offer aftermarket ECUs but not for the frontiers or the xterras. supposedly due to that reason. so well see. the only other way i know i could tune it is with a AEM F/C something. and thats 500$ then the closest person that can tune AEM is 4 hours away and they told me it would be about 1200$ to tune, andddddd if state inspection sees a Piggy back ECU like that i will fail state inspection. they don't care about emissions just the piggyback ECU. still haven't figured that out yet. i have heard through from two companies saying i should be fine without a tune.
Oh ok, well if Jim Wolf said it should be fine then it should be ok. I still never figured out why companies like Hypertech or Superchips never gave us canned tune options. The s1 cams should be smooth at idle and really wake the engine up.
yeah thats the plan! onlything i would like todo that would probably require a tune would to be a way come up with a hotter ignition. i don't know if my booster is going bad or not but i looked at the spark coming from the coil and it was weak all the way around. so i don't know if its the booster/ capacitor or just its a weak spark to begin with.
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