I have seen a lot of posts with people doing LED conversions not just for Frontiers. I have also been reading a lot about how the dreaded hyper flash for the turn signals has been resolved in different ways.
The easiest is by adding the resistors at the bulb location. But they create a ton of heat.
So I dug farther. I have found that several other people have modified the relays for the turn signals by changing the resistor in the relay itself.
Has anyone here tried or experimented in doing this. And since we have two relays one for left and right it would have to be done to both. Thoughts?
I have done several LED turn signal conversions on motorcycles. Do we get hyper flash or no flash at all.
They sell no load LED turn signal flasher relays. I think this is the best way to go. Depending on your relay it should be a simple plug and play part.
A quick search shows a standard 3 pin relay. But I am not sure as I have never done this. Best way is to confirm by locating the relay.
All flasher relays essentially are two pin. One to supply base 12v+ and the other pin to the turn signal +, that supllies it with a pulsed 12v+. The 3 pin version just adds a ground. The more complicated ones (8 pin dodge) for just has a line in for each Turn signal.
I have been unable to locate any plug and play type relays for LED conversion for our trucks. When I pulled it out last night it had 4 pins. And there is one for both the right and left left turn signals. Locate on opposite end of the box under the hood. What I was saw in other forums for different makes. Is they have taken the cover off the relay, removed the factory resistor and replaced it with a lower voltage resistor. Just curious if anyone has done this on a Frontier. And which resistor they used.
If it is really just a four pin set up; 2 for right and 2 for left. Then you can easily use 2, 2 pin flasher relays. In fact I sell them on the motorcycle forum that I am a member of. LED Turn Signals, Flasher Relays, and Diode Kits | Adventure Rider
Most auto parts stores sell them too. PM me if you want me to mail you a couple.
Well plan "B". Here is a picture of the relay with the over off. No way to change the resistor. But it is a 4 blade relay. You would think someone would have a LED version of it. If anyone knows of one let me know. But until then the search for a alternative hyper flash fix continues.
Ended up putting in line resistors on all four corners for each bulb, unfortunately there isn't a way around it. No relays available and our can't be altered.
If the relays are under hood (I think that read this) what is making the clicking noise under the dash. When this happened in my jeeps there was a relay under the cover for the steering wheel. Just a quick swap and it was fixed...
I put in the Auxitos in the rear and had already had another brand in front that worked fine. The Auxitos work fine when the headlights are off but when I turn them on the drivers side works fine but passengers side hyperflash’s.. any ideas?
They were supposed to be error free hyperflash.. close but no cigar! Until I get this figured out will this hurt anything? It’s not like I’m driving much anyways and especially at night when it happens because of headlights being on.
I don't have a perfect solution, just some background.
The flasher in cars used to be a simple bimetal switch in series with the turn signals. When the turn signals were turned on, the bimetal would heat up, break the connection, cool down, close the connection etc. This turned the light on and off. It may have made a clicking sound at one time too. If one of the bulbs was out, the current would be smaller, causing it to heat up less, which somehow made it switch on and off faster.
The four wire relay in our vehicles is not a flasher. It just allows a small current to control a big one. There's a BCM - Body Control Module, which is a microcontroller that controls the flashing. It just turns the lights on and it turns them off. It also measures the resistance through the bulb and if the bulb is out, the resistance will be high and the BCM will start flashing fast, which alerts you to the problem in the same way the old bimetal did.
LEDs use far less current than an incandescent bulb so with those the BCM thinks your bulb is shot. If you put a resistor of the right value in parallel with the LED you can fake it. Make sure to get one of sufficient wattage and place it so air can flow past it.
Build in CANBUS will prevent 95% hyper flash and error warning. No need to mess around with resistors or cutting your car harness. Fit size: 3156, 3056, 4056, 4156, P27W, etc.
Thanks for the recommendations., old post but I’m glad you dug this up.. I thought I had replied back to this but evidently not! That hyperflash went away after the first use, I have no idea why or how but hasn’t done it since. Sorry if my last post above swayed others from purchasing these.. they have been working well with no other issues.
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