Quote:
Originally Posted by silentsamurai
I understand where your coming from CCT. I base my Sandpaper off of the fingernail test. If a rotary or PC wont get it out then of course it wont pass the fingernail test.
For those of you whom dont know what that is. If you have a scratch that looks like it can come out with an OTC product but doesnt. Its easy to tell. stroll your nail across it, if it catches than theres a good chance you'll have to sand.
I am not doubting your years of knowledge. But I know sandpaper and I use 600-1000 for taking off clear coat(small layers at a time) and 2000-2500 for correcting it.
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600 grit will take clear coat off almost immediately. I personally wouldn't use that coarse on any car. Except maybe for a one stage paint pre 1968 car with heavy oxidation.
The inherent problem with using 2500 grit is that it produces scratches from it's paper that are so small that perfecting the paints finish with the removal of the tiny scratches is most times very difficult to get absolutely perfect ( not one scratch left, etc. ), especially used on English hard paints like Bentley and Rolls use with there thicker 8 - 12 mils paint. The grain structure of the paint, which has a tighter reflection ratio won't react well to 2500 at all.
2500 - 3000 and above grits are designed for Stainless and Aluminum , followed with Jewlers rouge in varying strengths and varying buffer speeds to polish there surface to flawless.
Interesting with your above comments about knowing sand paper that you wouldn't have sanded your scratches out instead of buffing your liquid product over it first !!!
